I was always told in life it's not how you fall but how you get up. It applies to literally everything we do, surf included.
Having just moved to LA, surfing seemed like a natural hobby to pick up. Only caveat, I suck at it. Also, for any of you who have actually tried surfing in LA, it's not the easiest experience. The water is cold, the waves are big(ger) and you are surrounded by a flock of experienced surfers... all this makes for an intimidating combo. Luckily, our little surf town in El Palmar (Panama) was the total opposite. Warm water, baby waves and a handful of beginners which makes it an incredible place to learn. I was still falling... clearly... but with a smile 🙃
Caption for this photo: veni, vidi, cecidi (otherwise translated as I came, I saw, I fell)
