After Lucca, we went to see Altopascio by train. Actually this was a one day walking path. But since it currently consists entirely of cement, asphalt and warehouses, we decided to start our walking trek directly after Altopascio on the first day. In the past people used to walk through the fields. Now because everywhere is filled with buildings, walking between these two points is not very appealing. We started exploring the city with the famous bell here. This bell used to ring continuously at night from the 10th century to the 13th century. Imagine, these were malaria spreading swamp areas. If people could not reach here by evening, they could actually die. And you are in a helpless state, seeing nothing, not knowing where to go and you hear the sound of a bell. The monks rang the bell every hour for 300 years to save people's souls and of course their bodies. Now this bell does not ring, but you can close your eyes and imagine what those times were like.
This is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele square and one of the most important places in the region. That famous Hospitaller Order that helped pilgrims was founded in Altopascio. As early as the 10th century, Benedictine monks came here and started helping those in need. The road was difficult, the surroundings were covered with these malarial swamps and people needed to be treated. There was an open hospital here with 300 beds. At that time, hospitals in London and Paris had a maximum of 50 to 100 beds. Here all Christians, Muslims, Jews, poor and rich were treated. Of course not everyone recovered, which is why there is a cemetery here. Some reached their final journey here. Unfortunately after the Black Death this place became empty,but it is still a very important point on the Via Francigena. It is very interesting to think that the pilgrims walking on this path, on these stones for a thousand years also had specific thoughts and goals. Everyone had their own wishes. I think this is a very philosophical path.
We also started walking on this path after our visit to Altopascio. The medieval stone paving is still preserved. Millions of people passed over these exact stones, right next to these houses.
One of the rest stops on the way is a small bar. Everyone has written something on the walls here. There is a huge amount of these signatures at the bar. The bar owner also persuaded us to write something. We also met two travelers from England. We ran into them in three different places and finally chatted and became friends. We were going to the same city and our path was one. That is why we kept running into each other continuously.
We reached one of the most interesting places on the path. The bridge and the entire fortification structure were built at the beginning of the fifteenth century by Cosimo de Medici. The plaque on it says so as well. Here there is a hostel called Punta di Medici for young people. It is said that accommodation is only 18 euros. But since we did not book in advance, we continued on our way, after all we were only halfway through the path. By the way even Leonardo da Vinci once described this structure on a map. To be honest the most beautiful views today were here. After the forest, walking in the open air, under the sun, accompanied by birdsong and among horses is especially enjoyable.
They generally call the Via Francigena path the Road of the Franks. But why? The event took place in the year 990. At that time, the Archbishop of Canterbury set out directly from England towards Rome. He had to receive the pallium, an old symbol of power. The problem was that the Pope presented the pallium only in person. This archbishop had to cover a distance of 2000 km. He crossed the English Channel, crossed the Alps, finished his journey in Rome and returned. Along the way he started keeping a diary. He documented all 79 of his overnight stays. This diary is still kept in the British Museum and we are still walking on the route he described. So it can be said that he was the first guide of this path. Who did not pass along this path after him. Rich, poor, sinners, saints, all walked side by side. Some to be cleansed of their sins, some in pursuit of God and some fleeing from punishments.
In the Middle Ages courts very often gave this verdict. Either execution or a pilgrimage to Rome. Pilgrimage was dangerous because really many people died on the way. But they stopped by churches, got stamps and when they returned, they were completely cleansed of all punishments. Also in the tenth century, Holy Roman Emperor Henry IV passed through this path. However, he walked barefoot. He had argued with the Pope and was excommunicated from the church. When all his vassals began to refuse their oath to him, he had no choice but to make peace. As if walking barefoot was not enough, he waited barefoot for 3 full days in a penitential shirt at Canossa Castle. After being forgiven and making peace with the Pope, he returned and had a long, happy reign. That is why this place is both a path of forgiveness for sins and a path of power.
Women also walked this path. For example, we know that in the tenth century, Hildegard went to Rome via this path to have her divine visions approved by the Pope. Meanwhile, the woman was eventually declared a saint and most of her visions regarding the life of Jesus became the basis of Christian tradition. Sinful women walked too. Some went to pray for their husbands going to war, some for their sick children. Sinful women walked for their souls to be freed from sins.
This is a path that remembers the year 1,000. Imagine about a million people taking to this path when the first holy year was declared in 1300. Back then, the population of Rome was 30 to 35 thousand. 200 thousand people could arrive in the city at the same time. And naturally, this path brought wealth to Tuscan cities. Only now do I understand why everything in Tuscany is so comfortable and well kept and why rural hotels are so good. Because there has been a tradition of hospitality here for a thousand years.
This region is known for its mushrooms. Moreover there are real white truffles gathered right here. It turns out white truffles are found in the hills of San Miniato. The season is right between September and December. Around November, they organize a festival and a white truffle market here.
We moved on to the town of San Miniato. Actually this is a Lombard town dating back to the 6th century. Its true wealth comes from its key position between the main Tuscan cities. In the 10th century, a duke actually ruled Tuscany from here and built this tower, which is the symbol of the city. It is also an important place for pilgrims because Via Francigena passes right next to it. The city was a center of power and wealth. For example, in the 10th century, they began producing saffron, which was worth its weight in gold. That is why merchant wealth and piety coexist here.
We visited the Monastery of Saint Francis. Saint Francis stopped by here while on his pilgrimage and seeing that this city lacked a place where pilgrims could be healed spiritually rather than physically, he founded this monastery. Francis's philosophy, everything must be very simple and modest, which is why we do not see great masterpieces in the monastery right now.
Then we stopped by a winery. I really love seeing places where wine is produced. That way, wine gains completely different meanings for me. In the past they used to lower empty barrels down these stairs and fill them up below. Now there are French oak barrels where the local red Super Tuscan wine is aged. Americans bought this winery dating back to the 15th century at the end of the 20th century and opened a delicious restaurant.
After having our dinner here, we continued on our way and went to the town of Gambassi Terme. In my next posts I will talk about the new places we saw. See you soon.
