Hello everyone. This time I want to tell you about my journey to Italy's most photogenic and favorite places. The Amalfi Coast and the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida. An impressive beauty of fifty kilometers was waiting for us. These lands inspired Goethe, Wagner and many other poets and writers. Now they were inspiring me. In front of this beauty, staying silent was impossible for me. That is why throughout my journey I took my pen and paper and started putting my memories onto paper. In this post series I want to share all of them with you.
The Amalfi Coast is known as the location where the movie "The Talented Mr. Ripley" was filmed. This place is packed with luxury hotels and the most amazing yachts from all corners of the world drop anchor here. And behind these postcard views lies a deeply rooted history. A history of sailors, fishermen, lemon groves and centuries old traditions. On this trip I saw myself not just as a tourist, but as a researcher discovering how people have lived on these steep cliffs for centuries, what kind of flavors they created from seefood and what secrets the historical streets hold. Of course plenty of my personal experiences, moments of enjoying this beauty and historical context that will allow us to understand where all this enchanting atmosphere comes from will also accompany me. I could not help but share this with you. This time there will be plenty of emotion, cool sea views and historical narratives just in the style you love.
At the end we bought a tour. We had no idea who would be with us, so it was quite an interesting experience. I had no strength left to organize friends, the yacht and the captain. Getting tired I said "Okay I will just join whatever tour comes up." I knew there would be children on our catamaran.
Actually we were sailing as two catamarans. For a way we were lucky. The other catamaran had a private chef, was larger in size and had a more luxurious design. But its price was twice ours. Ours was not particularly large, but the space was more than sufficient imo. Every family has their own cabin and of course, a private bathroom. But the thing that always surprises me is the shower arrangement. Of course, there are luxury catamarans where the shower is separate, but most of the time you wash up somehow in a space combined with the bathroom and toilet. There was even a wardrobe, so I was able to hang my dresses immediately without wrinkling them at all.
We were in eleven people in total on the catamaran. The majority consisted of children, including my nieces and nephews. As adults we were only four people, so we definitely did not feel cramped. The kitchen was quite functional. Preparing meals for ten to eleven people was not difficult at all.
We weighed anchor from the Port of Salerno. All charter companies are based in Salerno. Because in the Amalfi Coast itself, port mooring fees are at astronomical levels. The organizational aspect is quite practical.We did our weekly shopping in advance. We did our shopping at a nearby supermarket and set off. We departed a bit late because the rain started, but this did not spoil our mood at all. because watching the sunset in Amalfi is an amazing event.
Since we had no strength left, we could not go for a walk, but of course we did not neglect having dinner. By the way right inside the port, there are many delicious restaurants doing real Neapolitan pizza. After all we were stil within the provincial borders of Naples. I could not convince my nephew. He made his choice in favor of lobster. When night falls, Amalfi loses none of its beauty. But I was impatiently waiting for the morning.
Actually Amalfi is not just a holiday resort. It was once one of the four great maritime republics, along with Genoa, Pisa and Venice. You know Italy's naval ensign. The coats of arms of these exact four republics are featured on it. Imagine that in the ninth century, Amalfi separated from Naples. Byzantium was losing its glory and Rome was in ruins. Amalfi on the other hand, was placing all its bets on trade. In other words they started cooperating with everyone. They used to say, We have no enemies, only customers. Silk, spices, the most precious goods. All of them were under the monopoly of the Amalfitans. Byzantium even granted them special tax privileges. Let me put it this way. From Cairo to Constantinople, there were quarters belonging to Amalfi in fifty different cities around the world.
This great wealth enabled the city to flourish. The first codification of maritime law, Tavole Amalfitane was created here. Meaning you can think of today's maritime law as not being much diferent from this. Concepts such as docking rules and force majeure were all developed back then in the Middle ages. It is even said that the Amalfitans invented the compass. Although this is not fully confirmed, everyone wants to believe it.
The locals recommended a place for me to go eat croissants and sfogliatelle. This dessert peculiar to Naples is eaten right here. Amalfi in general is known for its famous lemon cake. Lemon treats are eaten right at this Pansa pastry shop. The dessert we ate was very delicious. Its name is Delizia, meaning perfection in a single word. A lemon perfection. My friend wanted to stay on the boat, but then just to be able to eat a sfogliatella, she paddled all the way to us on a sup paddleboard.
Cars are driving through these narrow streets here. Not to mention the motorcyclists and the crowd of walking people. These streets remember the days when trade continued twenty four hours a day and ships anchored in Constantinople, Cairo and Palermo. In the neighboring town of Atrani, the famous Amalfi galleys, capable of carrying three hundred tons of cargo and reaching a speed of twelve nautical miles, were being built. A record speed for that period. Imagine in the tenth century, seventy thousand people were living in Amalfi. This number was more than in Paris or London. Meaning this place was one of the main centers of Medieval Europe.
The real hero of this place is the lemons here, known as Sfusato Amalfitano. Limoncello is made from these very lemons. By the way the secret to a good limoncello is to peel only the outermost onemillimeter part of the yellow rind. Because the white part is quite bitter. Limoncello emerged in the tenth century. Even the recipe of a Dominican monk has survived to this day. It says that one needs to take the rinds of twenty lemons and steep them in alcohol for forty days. The recipe has never changed. Only the most expensive limoncellos are steeped for months and served very cold. It should thicken from the cold and almost take on a viscous consistency. As for us we eat these lemons by chopping them directly into salads.
It is no coincidence that lemons have become the symbol of the entire Amalfi style. The lemons here have a unique aroma precisely because they are grown in this geography. The combination of sea breeze, volcanic soil and climate makes them special. By the way the harvest continues throughout the year. It is said that the most delicious ones are the winter harvest. This exact variety of the Amalfi lemon grows in our home as well.
One of Amalfi's most important structures is of course, the Cathedral of Saint Andrew. By the way there are amazing doors dating back to the tenth century there, but the thing that always impresses everyone the most is its courtyard. This place is called Chiostro del Paradiso, meaning the Cloister of Paradise. This section on the interior precisely symbolizes paradise. It dates back to the thirteenth century. The combination of Arab and Byzantine styles prevails here. This situation symbolizes that Amalfi has always been located on the border of the Eastern and Western worlds. If you recall Amalfi had achieved this cultural synthesis by establishing friendly relations with the Arabs, Byzantium and the West.
There was no one here. An incredible atmosphere prevailed. The frescoes are so beautiful. It is clearly understood that they date back to the Middle ages. There is a small museum here. And from the earthly realm to the religious realm, we descended into the crypt where the relic fragments of Saint Andrew have been preserved for eight hundred years. Right here every year on November twentyseventh, a miracle takes place and an oily liquid is secreted from where the relics are kept. This is called Manna of Saint Andrew and is a miracle spoken of by the whole world. Here stands an eyecatching, baroque style altar. We were on the same line as the church, right below the main cathedral and the altar. Pilgrims visit this place since eight hundred years.
We went up one kilometer high. The best view of Amalfi is watched from above. We went down by elevator. By the way going up costs a fee, while going down is free. This elevator is located in the same place as the parking lot inside the tunnel.
We saw the Anantara Convento Amalfi hotel. Its rooms are incredibly expensive, but tourists return there again and again for that mesmerizing view. To tell the truth swimming at Amalfi's own beach cannot be considered a great pleasure. But if you are staying in Amalfi, why not? Everyone comes here at least for a day to rent a yacht, a speedboat or a boat with or without a skipper. The most beautiful thing is the entire coastline rather than the town itself.
The Li Galli Islands were the first islands we stopped by.. You have probably heard the famous legend about this place. Perhaps you know who was the only person to hear the song of the sirens and survive. Of course, I am talking about Odysseus. According to the legend, those terrifying creatures with the face of a woman and the body of a bird, who enchanted everyone around with the sound they produced and dragged them into the depths, meaning the sirens had lived right here. Following the advice of the sorceress Circe, Odysseus ordered his crew to cover their ears with wax. As for himself he had them tie him tightly to the ship's mast. Imagine he begged his friends to untie him so he could follow that sound, but of course they did not hear him. Thus he became the only survivor.
It is said that after this event, the sirens fell into such despair that they threw themselves into the water and turned into rocks. Those rocks are right here. The Li Galli Islands.
I do not know if the sound of the sirens can be heard there right now, but I know very well that this place is the center of music culture. Imagine Massine once lived here. He had hosted Picasso and Diaghilev. Later in the second half of the twentieth century, Nureyev bought these islands. Yes, that great dancer. And this was the only place where he could be alone with himself. After Nureyev's death, the islands were bought by an Italian hotel chain owner. Nowadays it is possible to stay here. I am not entirely sure, but the weekly acomodation fee is said to be around one hundred thousand euros. Three islands, several villas, a spa center and that private cave Nureyev created with his own hands. Its interior is filled with historical artifacts and antiques. I admired the islands from afar.
By the way it is discussed that the siren legend might have been born here because the structure of these islands is in a shape that echoes sound. Perhaps from time to time, the distant sounds of Mediterranean monk seals visiting here were confused with siren cries.
After the Li Galli Islands, we headed to Sorrento, another place connected with the Sirens. In my next post, I’ll share the rest of our trip with you. See you soon.
