Love me a good Roman ruin. They are super hard to resist. Not only are they beautiful and poignant on the landscape, but their architecture is just amazing, and their influence on society, culture and politics just huge. When we saw there were ruins at Bolonia, just up the road from Tarifa, how could we resist?
Baela Claudia was essentially a trading port. It was situated for easy trade across the strait of Gibraltar to Tangier. I could imagine the fishing boats hauling in tuna and the smell of fish markets.
Like Volubilis, the spa baths were super cool. We have the Romans to thank for hammams and later spa resorts. We could see the underfloor furnaces. So cool.
Like Volubilis, the top level of the basilica was destroyed by an earthquake. Still, the flagstone paving and columns were spectacular.
I was also struck by the influence of Egypt on their worship of gods like Isis.
There was also a large visitor centre with cool finds from the ruins such as tweezers, marble feet from perhaps a goddess like Isis, and various anchors, pottery, and coins.
Afterwards we drove up behind the town to try to get to the next town over, but the gates were shut so we couldn't. However, the views from up there were just stunning. Vultures and eagles nested in the rocks and shot the breeze. There was also a lighthouse and magnificent views over gorgeous beaches.
Perhaps the rest of the post should simply be this, a poetic snapshot I wrote just after the visit. It's easy enough for you to look up more online if you are interested.
From a look out far above the Roman ruins of Baelo Claudia I imagine the centuries of water vessels moving through the Strait of Gibralter, where large container ships now bypass the Suez canal and colourful sails attach to kite boarders catch the wind along beautiful beaches. With the coast of Africa cut clear across the blue, it is easy to see the ghosts of oared Carthaginian boats or Roman and medieval galleys, and through the centuries to warships and destroyers.
Above the ruins fly vultures, looking down on the remnants of this once busy Roman port. The voices of schoolchildren are loud. This centuries nomads take in the crumbling temple of Isis and the earthquake destroyed basilica with awe. It is hard not to sense your own impermanence.
The seasons come and go, swathes of pink peas and white daisies endlessly decorating what's left of a long ago centre of trade and politics and rule. Fish is still served. People still take to the sea. But Isis, Minerva and Jupiter are long gone.
Or perhaps I could just say: man, check out these Roman ruins - pretty cool hey!
Apparently the red tuna in this area is to die for, particularly in Zahara and Barbate, but not on our budget and plus, the Spanish eat late and that's not our style. We ended up going back to Tarifa as it was only 20 minutes away and a free camp is just a winner in our opinion!
With Love,
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Hs