I stayed in an AirBNB there a bit ago, and would again. Traffic got heavy at times though not all times. I noticed one grocery store had a much better selection of stuff than another. It definitely seemed like there was a rowdy tourist element to the place, not sure how new that is. That said, I'd be one of the people renting a 4x4 next time. I really wanted to keep going down a road that turned into a trail there but I was in a minivan.

But overtourism can definitely mess a place up if the swarm of people is too big. When reasonable rental costs are far eclipsed by what weekly renters are willing to pay it will destabilize everything and eventually turn a place like that into a total slave to tourism.