One of the most memorable things I did on my trip to Kyoto was to spend an afternoon in Sakyō, NE Kyoto.
There are quite a few Zen Buddhist temples and Shintō shrines in the north of Kyoto where the mountains are, but many are packed full of tourists. Some are not. The really good ones are going to attract attention of course, but there are also places to go to experience the magic of this place without feeling like you’re being herded like cattle.
We started our afternoon visiting the beautiful UNESCO heritage-listed grounds of Ginkaku-Ji.
While there are no nearby train stations, it’s very easy to get to by bus, as there are bus stops specifically for here. So our adventure started by hopping off the bus at and walking a long a beautiful cherry-blossom lined canal along Imedegawa-dori Street.
The shops and cafes along this street are cute too, so you may find something you like here also. The road continues uphill, and you’ll pass a lot of souvenir shops and food stalls. And yes, soft-serve Maccha Ice Cream is definitely a thing!
When we went, it was busy but not excessively so (like many others). Entry was ¥500 each (kids ¥300), but the ticket is definitely worth keeping as a souvenir.
Inside the grounds are like a painting. Rock gardens and beautifully manicured zen gardens, complete with a small lake, and lots of blossoming trees. This was one of the few places that maintained a strong sense of serenity even with crowds. It was built in the 15th Century originally as a resting home for the shōgun, but then was turned into a temple after the founder converted to Buddhism.
Once you’ve walked around the grounds of Ginkaku-Ji, we then decided to amble along the Philosophers’ Walk, which is a path along the canal heading south. The streets are quiet and residential, but there are cute little businesses situated along here. At this time with the blossoms, and with the golden afternoon light, it truly is a wonderful soirée.
But there are also a few more hidden gems as you follow this route.
There are signs for this, and it’s only a small way off the canal walk. And well worth it.
When we came, there was maybe one or two other people visiting. It is quite an old temple, having originated as a hut for an early Buddhist monk and his pupil. The grounds are exquisite, and it was a delight just to sit quietly and nature-gaze. There is also a very old bronze statue of a Boddhisattva.
There is no fee to enter.
A little further down the walk is a very old Shintō shrine that is said to have the enshrined body of a very early Emperor, Ojin.
There are a few little shrines all devoted to local animal spirits, including the fox messenger-spirit so prevalent at Fushimi Inari-Taishei.
Best of all there is a toilet here, which was useful after all the water we drank while walking.
There is no fee to enter, but I left coins and my gratitude to the local spirits for inviting me here to enjoy its beauty.
