Let's have a look at using a CNC router to make wood signs mill brass cut. Cardboard templates, machining polycarbonate and grave granite. Cut builders phone before getting started. Be sure to check the RPM of your spindle or router in some cases.
The RPM is zeroing you'll also need to check the feed rate the travel of the spindle a router to make sure it's right checked your owner's manual for how to do this with your machine. They have a look at the companion article that goes with this video for specifics on feeds and speeds. First, let's look at cutting letters and a design into this walnut board.
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That's interesting, you'll see in our next project we're going to use the same design twice with slightly different tool pads to get a different look with the lettering. Artwork done. I'm now using a quarter inch bit in order to cut the final shape on the outside of our sign and here's a result same design.
However, different look coming at you here in this case the letters will be raised from the background. We're starting with a quarter inch bit. That's eliminating a lot of the background waste here as you're choosing the cutter for this operation keep in mind that a large diameter bit will remove the waste more quickly.
A small diameter bit like this quarter inch is better able to get into the detailed spots artwork like this ends now. We're back to that sixty-degree half inch B bit. This bit is going to cut in all the details look. It leaves those letters stand proud of the background. Giving this sign a very hand-carved look.
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I still find it very intriguing to watch. The CNC machine controls the bit and allow sit to create these very fine details now. We're back to that quarter-inch cutter again in order to cut the final shape.
The of this sign just like we did on the last one when you see the spindle lift slightly. It's leaving tabs behind bridges that connect the work to the surrounding frame. That holds it in place same artwork different tool path in a different. The brass is being milled with a single flute eighth inch diameter cutter making. I'll put into a walnut table non-ferrous metals require a very light depth of cut.
I'm finishing up with a client cut in order to get the best possible surface. Finish on the brass double-faced tape works great for keeping the brass secure to a waste board. You're using a drag knife like we are here set the spindle.
Router to zero. Zero let me repeat at zero. You don't run the spindle the router for this. Operation what a great way to turn your project plans into templates. You can use in your amazing how the drag knife will pivot. It's pulled through the material in order to cut pretty complex shapes.
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You spray adhesive on top of the melamine to keep the cardboard. These parts are ready to trace onto your project pieces. The quarter-inch poly-carbonate is being cut with a quarter inch single flute that and if you watch carefully here.
You'll notice that the image has been reversed. It is being cut into what will be the backside of the poly-carbonate. This is a pretty common approach to see-through materials. That's mention, of the dust collection on the CNC machines. This is great when the dust shroud is on but in order to shoot video.
I've got the dust shroud removed with double-faced tape holding the poly-carbonate in place. I'm cutting completely there on this no tabs to produce the final outside shape. What would recur doesn't need this in their another case where you'll set the spindle a router to zero.
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This is a diamond drag there is literally a piece of diamond. The tip of this tool, when you set of cut on the diamond drag what you're doing is controlling. How hard the spindle pushes down on the compression spring in the tip hard materials require more down pressure.
It's all very well explain the instructions that come with the tool. This work can work on aluminium, brass, steel lots of different-materials. I love the that's a piece of standard pink building foam right off. The shelf at a home center. Because, it's two inches thick this provides a great way to test your cuts in a relatively inexpensive material.
Before, you throw a really expensive slab of wood onto your CNC. You can use it for what I'm doing here. Create 3d artwork. The roughing out portion of the cutting is working with a half-inch. That'll get most of the waste remove.
If you're working on a smaller piece, in order to get all your details probably have to go to a smaller diameter cutter. The final outside shape is cutting with a half-inch. Mill that we did the roughing pass with again. I'll leave tabs behind to bridge the workpiece to the frame a little bit of latex paint.
We're good to go like driving your car. Speed limits aren't just for suggesting you in there the law when you're running your CNC router. You've got to pay attention to feeds and speeds to get everything to come.
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This is it, an authentic Nantucket dining room. These white walls make everything stand out like this. Corner cupboard, and the nice big fireplace. The thing that attracts me first is this tablet made out of three pine boards. All check out this, they put a dutchman in there which may be a patch it had been probably made up of some recycled material from a ship . Maybe, another old house let's take a look underneath.
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The stretcher comes through that. That is held in place with this wooden wedge. Further down, the line we've added another brace here. That's probably, because the table is pretty thin. It needed some extra support for its length.
The one thing that surprised me about this table. It's made out of pine which is a soft wood. Dining room table would get a lot of nicks and dings. This one's been beautifully cared for the other thing that impresses me. Which is the proportions narrow yet very large that probably means you could see 10 people.
At this table comfortably, I should take a few measurements make some sketches. This is something that we could build back at? The shop I suppose the most formidable task of building this table is edge gluing. This top because, it's so big and in fact, it's built out of six boards. You can see one, two, three, four, five, six boards. I just couldn't find a way how to align. Glue all these pieces. Clamp them before the glue set up, so I broke it down into two groups.
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Now, I'm ready to join these two groups together. That’s the easy part now comes the hard part setting these pieces down. Aligning them and clamping them together. Each group together before the glue sets up now. You notice, when I do my clamping, I’m going to use some piece of small scraps of wood. That I don't mire up the edges of my table okay now. This next clamp is going to go over. The topic always alternates the clamps one undergone over about every two feet down. The length of the table top okay that looks pretty good now.
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We'll just let it dry one of the great things about a trestle table is that it can be easily disassembled. Let's take a look at one of the trestles. You can see, it’s three pieces a foot a vertical member right here. A brace on the top now the foot is attached to the vertical member by a mortise. Tenon the foots made out of two pieces of wood which will get glued together.
I’m going to do it before I do the glue upon the radial arm the radial arm is setup with a dado head. Which is just twiblades at an angle to one another. They plot out material. We can do that in only a couple of minutes watch with the 2 pieces from my foot day toad glued. Clamped together, I’m going to set it aside.
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Turn my attention to this top brace which also has a mortise that goes all. The way through but this time. I don't have an alternative I do have to drill all the way through this piece of wood. The excess material so I’ve laid out the area of the mortise on the top. On the bottom because I need those lines as guidelines.
I'll bring them over to the drill press here where I’ve installed a 3/4-inch Forstner bit. This feather wood which helps hold the work tightly up against the fence. It won't move around as I bore it out now with the short bit. I'm going to have to boy through one side turn it over. Finish the boring from the other side it really helps to have some sharp chisels when you're working with this hardwood now a little bit of work with a wood rest.
The next thing I want to do is turn my attention to this vertical piece because this piece is about ten inches wide. I have to glue up a couple pieces of cherry because the widest I could get was about six. A half inches and the first thing I want to do is make a tenon on the end of this piece which goes through that top brace. I'm going to do that to this piece right here over on the radial arm saw which again has the dado head in it.
I've set it up so that it’ll remove about 5/16 of an inch of material on each side of this vertical piece well. It takes care of the data wing for the top tenon now. We need to form another one on rock bottom here because there’s a tenon that goes through the foot section. It's a little bit thicker so I'm going to have to readjust my radial arm but the procedure is exactly the same the next thing I want to do is put a shoulder cut on these tenants.
That’s to remove this piece of materials that I don't stand the chance of having a gap right along this edge. I could use a lot of different tools to do that job but I prefer to do it on the bandsaw. you might have noticed that when I made this shoulder cut on the bandsaw that I left. A little extra material on right here.
I'm just removing the excess with a good sharp chisel well now. It’s time to form this mortise right here which is where the stretcher passes through to attach the 2 trestles. I’ll do that over on the drill press which still has a three-quarter inch Forester bed in it.
I'll just drill a series of holes to get that material out. Now, I'll just clean out this mortise with my chisels a bit like I did on the opposite one okay subsequent thing. I want to do is cut these angles on the breaks the top brace which is sixty degrees. It's a steep angle. I’m going to do it over here on the table saw with my T-square, but if, you find out that.
You pull the T-square back to get started it goes off the end of the table, so it's not very steady. What I’m going to do is just turn it around. That'll make it a lot easier. Safer to make this cut well now. That the glue is set up on my foot assemblies. I'm ready to do some more work. I made this template from the table down in Nantucket. It gives me two things the profile along the top of the leg. This little space underneath here.
That's this so that the table will rest on for smaller bearing points rather than just to longnose. I take my template and trace the outline of the pattern on each blank. Then, I'll go over to my bandsaw. Make the cuts well bandsaw does a true nice job cutting those curves, but they're still a touch bit rough. I've taken the Chuck out of the drill press. Replaced it with this drum sander. That does a great job smoothing it out.
Squaring it up take a look the next thing to do to the foot assemblies now that they're all sin that is to relieve the edges right here along the top. To do that, I'm going to use a quarter inch rounding over bit. I’ll do both edges. The next thing I want to do is check how well. This joint fit I want it to be tight. I want it to be flush so I’m just going to drive fit the two pieces together. That's you want to glue it now. We'll try a dry fit okay.
I’ll just dress that up with my sander. With this piece nicely sanded smooth I'm able to put this decorative bead right down the sting here. I'm going to have to pull it apart again come over to my table saw which is now outfitted with a moulding head cutter. You can see there's a cutter mounted in a heavy base. There's three of these on the entire system but this bead this cutter is set up for three beads. I only need one. I'm going to slide the fence over covering two of the beads.
I've set a guide mark right here on my table. I'll tighten that down and run my piece through on all four edges well. It's glue-up time. I want to make sure that I get some good coverage right on these shoulders. Cheek cuts of my tenon, so I've put the glue on with the glue bottle. Now I'm just using a brush to spread it out evenly.
Then on the tenon itself I'm going to use my little glue roller. I want to urge a reasonably decent coverage on those, but I don’t want to place such a lot glue thereon that once I squeeze the 2 pieces together. It's all going to lose out okay with that clamped down. I can set it aside to dry overnight, but first I want to take a damp sponge.
Remove any excess glue, because we want to make sure we do that now well a little more rain here. This morning in New England, but I guess, we could use it. The trestles have been setting up overnight. I guess they’re all set, but I'm going to leave them in the clamp for a little while. Turn my attention for the rest of the assembly.
I'll need to make some notches within the ends here where it passes through the opening within the trestle when it comes out with a touch little bit of a taper. Then also along the centre of the trestle right here. I need to cut amortise for this center brace. Also, on this little top crossmember. I also need another little mortise now the drill press still has its three-quarter inch forcing a bit in it.
I'm just going to drill a couple holes now this time. I don't have to go all the way through I only have to go down about an inch okay now for. This centre brace you slide it in behind my feather Boyd. This one I'm going to have to drill all the way through. I'll drill from one side turn it over. Then finish it now. I'll clean out the rest of these two mortises with a good sharp chisel Justas before now. I'm going to turn my attention to this tapered support in the enter.
The first thing that I have to do is take my blank stock here. Make a tenon on each end. I'll do that with my radial arm which is set up with a dado head cutter. That takes care of the Tenon's now we’ll give him a trial fit that looks pretty good this top one okay well now. I can go over to the band saw.
Cut this tapered part right here as well as these curves right along this top brace. Hotshots out the edges of the tapered piece. Now since the beaten bit is still is in the saw. I'm going to bead the four edges one last beating operation which is tour stretcher.
