I’m not a big fan of surfer action shots. In general my feeling is that while they are dynamic, they’re all pretty much the same. But I have this soft spot for surfers, their suits, their boards. This I find interesting. Especially on gloomy days. The juxtaposition is glorious.
It’s not just the unexpected visual contrast. You’ve gotta have respect for people who are willing to suit up and get into the frigid waters under the pelting rain. That’s serious dedication. That is hardcore passion. It may also be a little batshit crazy. But as an artist, it’s something to which I can totally relate. I love this level of obsession. This is what drives me as well.
When no one else is around - no one else is willing to brave the rough and murky madness - those of us who have to do what we do will persevere. These are the moment that make the most beautiful of memories.