Travel is a blur. You spend so much time thinking —sleepless nights dreaming; Planning. Wondering. Researching. Booking. And finally pulling the trigger to do it. Your first trip abroad!
I had hosted a traveler from South Korea in my tiny Brooklyn apartment years earlier. We'd kept in touch. I was working a job in Summer 2014 in the city, and had some vacation time to spare. So I booked a flight. Spent a week there. Came back. Would I recommend you do it exactly as I did? Probably not. It's very expensive! That's two 18hr flights on the end of the same week, in economy no less! But it gave me that window to another culture. I barely had time to say no or second guess. I just went. If you always find yourself searching for excuses, maybe that's just what you need. two weeks to prepare, (thankfully visa on arrival) and $2000. Spontaneity isn't cheap.
December, 2015. Same job. Different climate. I was over it at that point. Corporate had taken over. Friends had transferred. It wasn't the same. I was extremely frugal though, so despite living in one of the most expensive cities in the world, I had put a little money away. Why bear another brutal winter in New York? Armed with my passport, backpack, and bike, I went to South America.
December, 2016. I had been to five new countries, saw my sister get married, and gained a decent fluency in Spanish, largely from travel. I had been working, or volunteering rather, for a beach hostel in the small Mexican town of Puerto Escondido — Literally meaning "hidden port". I remember arriving on a flight from Mexico City, and walking on the tarmac to the terminal. Not uncommon for much of the world, mind you, but my first small airport. In fact, the town was so small that I chose to walk from the airport to my hostel.
Every day I was sweeping, painting, and cleaning, with a crew of other travelers, to prepare for the busy season. For a few hours labor, we had a place to stay. Not glamorous, but it was a vibe.
I also made a few friends there. Folks from Mexico, the US, UK, and Israel. (You tend to run into a similar group at most hostels.) We'd hang out, go down to Zipolite beach to swim or snorkel, surf, walk barefoot to the general store, interact with the local children and cats, and just talk. It was such a relief to end the year in a quiet place like this. Plus there was some pretty scenery!
After some days, though, I'd had enough. Nothing wrong with the beach life, or the awesome friends I'd made! But the hostel owner had taken our humble bunk beds, and told us that there were paying guests coming. We'd have to sleep in tents outside. Seeing an opportunity, I decided instead to hit the road — hailing a chicken bus, for a long and bumpy ride through the rural area, inland towards the city of Oaxaca.
Upon my arrival, I was greeted by my host — a friendly man, named Mauro, whom I'd met online just days earlier through the community-led hospitality exchange site, BeWelcome. I'm always happy to lend support for these types of projects, and he would be my first host!
Mauro took me on a trip towards the outskirts of town. He and his brother had a humble home, high up on a hill in a quiet neighborhood. To get there we could take a bus, but the last stretch walking was all on my own. I remember the neighborhood kids were surprised. This was definitely not a place that tourists go. In any case, I was grateful. Our first night, I shared some ingredients and we made a meal together.
A few days later, having seen some amazing street art, taken photos, and eaten delicious Mexican food, I posed a question to Mauro. I wanted to visit Hierve el Agua, a mineral spring and waterfalls outside Oaxaca city, to celebrate the New Year. He had a tent. I asked him if I could borrow it, and he accepted.
The next day, Mauro helped me to the bus, and I headed for the station where I'd transfer, bound for the town of San Lorenzo Albarradas. On arrival, I was struck with what I thought was crazy. Bunches of taxis lined up, and for the few mile journey up the winding unpaved road to the waterfalls, they wanted much more than I had paid even for the 70km bus ride here! And I'd have to pay the same for the ride back! Bound both by frugality and the limited funds I'd brought with me, I decided instead to start walking, hoping to hitch a ride.
After some time wandering, I realized part of the reason why the taxis were so expensive. There was hardly anyone here! But I had committed, and like many other times before and since, I continued walking, even when it felt stupid and headstrong to do so.
I made out alright. I eventually flagged down a pickup taxi, and negotiated a much more reasonable fare for my seat to the top. I got a discount, my feet got to relax, and I had the chance to drink beers and get to know the other riders — from Brazil, as we bounced up the hill to Hierve El Agua.
Shortly after, we were there. By then it was late afternoon, and though the views amazed, I realized my error. I had forgotten my swimsuit! Unabashed, I stripped down to my underwear, and posed with my new friends at the top.
As sun began to fade, we parted ways, and I made my way to the gravely patch of ground where I'd pitch my tent. Inside, I enjoyed a small meal, rolled out my sleeping bag, and though mildly uncomfortable from the stones in my sides, I fell asleep. I was glad to be here.
Dawn. The start of a new day, and a new year. January 1st, 2017. I had made it! One entire year backpacking around the world! It felt incredible to say that. Almost as incredible as this fact were the breathtaking views of the sunrise over the calcified waterfalls. For some time, I had them completely to myself. The feeling while looking out on the hills of Oaxaca state was quite special. An impossible feat managed.
I'll close with this. Backpacking had been a wild, unpredictable journey. Though confusing, lonely, and desperate at times, it was still completely worth it. I hope these moments inspire you, as did I, and motivate you to get out of your comfort zone, and explore.
— The Nudge
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