Istanbul is an odd place that certainly doesn't meet the expectations you may have. While I did no research before visiting, I really didn't think this would be a place full of bars to drink alcohol at, riddled with smoking, and lacking in any real order. It's unlike anything I could have imagined. But so far, I haven't really visited any art galleries and museums, or really any of the big tourist traps. Aside from major mosques, it doesn't seem like there's a lot really going on here. Much of the city seems to have adapted to the tourism interest and appeal to the night life culture; even finding night events beyond drinking at a bar or eating food seem difficult. Museums, however, do seem to be more spread around, as an interest in art and history extends beyond tourism. Near the heart of Taksim is a museum currently with exhibitions that seem more impactful, more historic and pertaining to the culture and development of Istanbul. With two floors, this exhibition on one floor told the story in summary of Istanbul's discovery for coffee, and on the second floor, the development and influence of weighing items in search for finding value in exchange for goods. An early monetary system for trade.
I found these exhibits pretty interesting, and not just because I have a fondness for coffee! It was interesting to see the influence other nations had on Istanbul in regards to drinking coffee, as well as how the people adapted to it and made it something of their own. And this was particularly evident in the way in which the people designed their various coffee making and drinking tools. The patterns and animals that appeared on pots and cups, the tools they made for smoking and drinking during the time of coffee consumption. There were many of these from various eras, though most appear to have been from the earlier 20th century. The coffee culture itself seemingly stemming from Chinese influence in regards to the way Istanbul designed porcelain items. It was quite evident at a glance, but also unique in their own way. Simple yet artistic.
The second floor was more the likes of your average art gallery. Huge open rooms, though admittedly the lighting could've been better as to highlight the details of the many paintings that sat idle upon its walls. These varied from large oil paintings and portraits of relatively famous figures in Istanbul's political history, and smaller watercolour paintings of the landscape of a much less dense, more beautiful Istanbul. It was really interesting to recognise the locations I had already walked through, but also a little sad to see how much they had changed as the landscape had lost some of its beauty with the modernisation of the city. Though both forms of art in the development of Istanbul were beautiful to see. Particularly the large scale of the portraits that really had displayed skill and attention to detail when it came to portraying character, but also the fabric and fashion in the nation's history. Truly impressive artistic skills.
This exhibition showcases the two different worlds of those in the field of painting, a creative and open-minded world while clashing with the more chaotic, political world of ambassadors. It's interesting to see how these two worlds could collide, and how artists may choose to depict these members of significant political influence.
The diversity between every day life and the political side of things, both in art and industry were a unique contrast for a museum. A small curation, but one that seemed engaging in the way it presented itself, even offering a scale for visitors to weigh themselves and see how they faired up against the traditional methods of weighing goods and determining value. The only downside to this museum was the poor lighting when it came to the portraits. To which it felt hard to really appreciate the individual works under the more atmospheric, darker lighting. Where you may want to appreciate the finer brush strokes, you really couldn't. Even making out the texture sometimes felt a bit of a challenge. Though it was still a fun time.
And for 80 Lira for a ticket upon arrival, that equates to about just under 拢3 per entry. A pretty reasonable price for such a chaotic area of Istanbul, in the heart of Taksim and surrounded by the more luxurious hotels and bars and restaurants. Where often enough you will stumble across film crews going about their works in the area. It's a great place to step away from it all, the huge crowds and the nose of the city, the thick smoke and pollution. It even had a small shop and a cafe on the first floor, for visitors to relax and unwind assuming their stay was to be a bit longer than required to see all of the installations.
We arrived at a relatively busy time of day, but the museum wasn't very full at all. Quiet and with only a handful of people there. It was surprising given the location. But I guess for many, it was too tucked away off the main busy shopping area of Taksim for people to care. The fact that it wasn't so busy made it more appealing, since you don't end up feeling rushed by others to stop and take in the information, of which was both in Turkish and English. Though upon arrival you do have to put your belongings through a metal detector to ensure you aren't carrying anything dangerous. But that's relatively normal for a museum these days. And the museum itself respected the individuals enough to not be tight on security or to keep you far from the art itself.
A mixture of old and new could be found. Historical money and weights, as well as modern art that spoke on the commentary of Istanbul's rapid transformation from a cultural place to one that catered to the modern world and tourism. Where historical buildings had been pushing aside in place for the huge, modern skyscrapers. As if development was the answer, though at the expense of covering up the beauty of the traditional artistic architecture, with nothing but depressing concrete replacing it. I liked this, as it's certainly how I have felt about Istanbul so far. And even watching an episode of Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown on the city confirmed this more. Istanbul is a place that doesn't know what it wants to be. It's a wild mixture of everything. And this museum showed the traditional development from the influence of something like coffee, to the political connections to art, and the loss of art. All on two floors.
For the price and the getaway from the area here in Taksim, I'd absolutely recommend the place. It won't take you a long time to get through it all, but it is a reasonable price and offers a cozy cafe to check out if you don't quite feel like moving to your next destination just yet. I shot the images with a Sony A6000 on a 35mm F1.8 lens.