I read recently that there would be 45 days of Christmas markets starting from December 1st. I was pretty excited about that, particularly given I haven't been feeling the festivity all that much these past few years. Being in other countries that celebrate differently naturally means you adapt a bit to your surroundings and their ways. For Georgia and Armenia, Christmas comes in January alongside the Orthodox calendar. Something that came about with the Soviet Union's influence in keeping a firmer grasp on various ideologies including religion. Religion wasn't entirely cast outside, nor outright banned, I should clarify. This January celebration remains despite the USSR's collapse, again due to the Orthodox side of things which continues.
In previous years it meant that they'd begin to decorate more closer to January. Shops wouldn't get into that festive atmosphere too early. And in some places the concept of decorating still felt a bit new. Though the times are changing, and people are finding more comfort in the festivities that linger on throughout the month. Younger generations want to feel connected more, to appreciate the aesthetics of a thing and place. And businesses, featuring more younger workers, now know that there's money to be made in appealing to such demographics! 45 days of Christmas markets in the city of Yerevan should be an incredibly exciting event. And I'm more looking forward to the ones that feature crafts for sale, little items to be purchased and of which are made by small businesses.
Though the first market to open is within Yerevan's Season's Park. A small park that is more a big seating area with some fountains in the middle more than anything else. Mostly the spot for bigger festivals like this where there are many people, a big stage for live music, and a few stalls in which people can grab a few snacks and drinks. Under the colder evenings and going into the much colder nights, these are wonderful. We walked around the area a little. The music wasn't the most festive, mostly just (more) annoying songs of Bruno Mars which was a bit of a surprise. We assumed there'd be some festive music at least, whether it came from speakers or a live stage performance. The place was stacked with people. It felt more dense than the markets during summer, and this was just the opening of the first market!
Within the middle of the park was a Christmas tree made of lights. Thought other markets either have no attempts at trees or instead have actual ones being put up. Walking around this area was really difficult due to how many people were around. Though this was the smallest problem of all compared to something else lingering around the city as of late: air pollution. This market was the first time in a week I had been outside. A thick smog that coats the city throughout. Within minutes I could feel my lungs hurting. The feeling of dense, nasty air in the back of the throat. Despite wanting to stick around at the market, which itself was mixed with the the smells of smoking and little bonfires made to keep people warm as they drink and eat, it wasn't a space of comfort. Some wore masks, some didn't as if they didn't notice the quality of air.
I'd say so far this was the least eventful Christmas market I've been to in this part of the world. Where it missed its mark a bit. Holding the visuals to a decent degree, even down to having little entertainment booths in which people could sing karaoke in silence together, free from the ridicule of the rest of the market, but the air and the music, plus perhaps a bit too much reliance on just selling food. It didn't particularly fill me with that festive joy I was in search of. The hunt continues from here on, however.
