The Istrian Peninsula of Croatia is a fantastic region. Great combination of charming seaside locations and picturesque hilly inner parts. As you have probably noticed, our family loves spending spring and autumn weekends cycling along the seashore, but the visit to Istria is not complete if you don’t stop in one of the charming hilltop villages.
It was not my first visit to Groznjan, and I know it will not be the last. This small medieval town is entwined with art. Inspired by narrow streets paved with stones, beautiful views, cozy houses, tasteful decorations, plenty of photographic motifs, and rich history, artists from all over the world gather there and participate in the art and music colonies.
Located on a small hill above the Mirna River, it is only 30 minutes’ drive from the seasoned resorts of Umag and Novigrad but also very close to the popular bike route Paranzzana.
The town most probably got its name from the Latin word Grisiumu or the Italian word Graeciniani, which means "the stone hill". In 1965, the town was declared an "art town" and a new era of creativity began in Groznjan. The houses, which were empty and abandoned after the Second World War, were inhabited by various artist associations from Croatia, Slovenia, Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The main role in this transformation of the town was played by the Zagreb sculptor Aleksandar Rukavina. Today, around thirty houses are transformed into galleries, studios, and homes for many artists.
Music is also extremely important to Groznjan. In 1969, they founded the International Cultural Centre of the Jeunesses Musicales Croatia, as a result of which they received the title of the world gathering place of young musicians. The town hosts approximately 50 concerts and festivals every year, and till today, more than 20.000 young musicians from all over the world have visited Groznjan.
The art festivals and colonies take place in the summer months, and during that time the town is very lively. The town is packed with artists that express their work through visual and musical arts. At those times, in the town, there are more artists than local inhabitants. If you are visiting Groznjan in mead season, it will also be very pleasant, with all the local galleries, shops, cafes, and restaurants. Once, I visited it at the end of October or beginning of November, and it was a little bit of a ghost town but still beautiful and charming.
As mentioned, Groznjan has so many eye-caching motives that it is a paradise for photography lovers. The weather was not great (light rain and cloudy), but I still managed to take some nice pictures. Walking along the streets, you immediately notice that the locals pay special attention to all details in the town; many houses are really nicely decorated (not only the art galleries).
On our walk through the town, we also came across an abandoned house. I believe that a future buyer will soon be found and he'll transform it into a real architectural gem and give it a suitable content.
The stone-paved roads also caught my attention, as they really are a feast for the eyes and a real work of art. Stones are not only used as a building material, but they also form pleasing patterns. Think about what today's roads look like 🙃
I noticed another detail, and that is the blue colour. Many of the houses had blue shutters and doors. Then I noticed the blue flag, which is the emblem of the city, and the blue bicycle, and the blue towel that was drying out of the house. Coincidence or something more? I cannot answer that.
The decorative plants were also a feast for the eyes, and their colours stood out in this rocky place, creating a wonderful contrast.
There are also some nice bars and restaurants, but we were attracted by a local vendor on a stand offering freshly made "fritule"- mini donuts, traditional Croatian desert.
You can’t leave Groznjan without buying a souvenir 😀. In the art galleries, you can find everything from paintings to sculptures, ceramics, and more, but also some traditional products of Istrian gastronomy like wine, olive oils, truffles, and more….
This time, we went home with a new painting. When we entered one of the galleries, my wife’s attention was captured by a series of portraits by a Croatian artist. We were not planning at all to buy a painting, and at first, she left the gallery, saying that she needed to take a walk and have a moment to think about the new purchase. I’m not sure if she did ten meters (I think they were even less), and she turned back to the gallery, saying: "I think this painting called my name."😊
Now we have a beautiful new portrait on our wall, and it might be that during the next visit of Groznjan we will bring home a new piece of art. My recommendation is that if you are on your way to Istria, then Groznjan is a real pearl that you must experience and discover!
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