Indonesia is a big country and there are a lot of places to visit more than just Bali, Papua, or even Labuan Bajo. Sure those places are great for its nature but Java, a more densely populated island and also the center of government, has a lot to offer. All these years traveling to Java, I keep discovering nooks and crannies of the island that I have yet to visit. Like I always said, a lifetime isn’t enough to discover and visit every part of Indonesia. At this time, I was curious about Semarang, not just for its lumpia but also the places that I can see around. I went for the weekend trip which is more than enough for anyone who wishes to visit the historical part of the area.

Semarang as a capital city offers more than mega shopping malls and the traffic. The city has a long history dating back even before the colonial era. However, the highlight is during colonial times and VOC occupation. This city is now the memento of an era that was long gone and serves as a bitter reminder for those who understand the history. However, the beauty of its new indies architecture and the different ambience that it offers certainly intrigued and lured anyone to come visit the city. Hands down, to me this is the best city to peek into colonial time as it was one of the most important city and trade routes during those days. If you come to Indonesia, this city should also be on your list especially if you are into architecture and also photography.

How to get to Semarang?

Getting to Semarang is not a difficult task. There are 4 ways to get there, either by train, by boat, by car or even by plane. Semarang is also well-connected and all the highlights of the city are located at the central Semarang. However, I don’t use the train though it would be more convenient but the time from Yogyakarta was only available at 7AM sharp.

The view on the way to Semarang from Yogyakarta

For me, I go to Semarang from Yogyakarta using a shuttle bus service. This shuttle bus offers a 3 hours drive, very on time and a convenient car. Even using the shuttle bus, in their lounge, they provide fresh coffee beans and coffee that anyone can have before boarding the shuttle bus. Thoughrought the journey, I passed through the beautiful mountainous area of Semarang that offers a tropical mountain range view. After the steep and meandering road, I eventually reached semarang. Everything was really foreign to me but on the way, I researched places to go and see and where I’d be having my lunch.

Then, just across the street from my shuttle bus, I found a little cafe that actually serves food. I wasn’t expecting much but their caramel macchiato was honestly, the bomb. It was just as good as a bigger cafe and chain would do it. I ended up having coffee, rice and chicken and also a pack of biscuits which was so reasonably priced. When I tasted the food, somehow I instantly knew that everything else in this city is going to be delicious.

After tasting the food, I went right away to order online transportation that would take me to my first destination, Kota lama or Old Town. Honestly, I was thinking that the old town would be pretty small and pretty much like any other old Indonesian town. I have been to Magelang, Surabaya, and Malang, even Jakarta but their old town comprised a small area and was only offering little activities and buildings see. Many of its buildings were altered, torn down, occupied and renewed with modern buildings. But this is what makes Semarang more interesting, they still preserve their old town and its surroundings.

What To See in Kota Lama (Old Town)

Old Town is massive. By that I mean, you can either spend 5 hours or 3 hours walking. That's up to you. I personally divided this place into two sessions. I first explored the North to the east, then east, south and west back to north then central. The sights that you can choose to see are either the alleyways or the historical bits like the old well, the old buildings, and cafes/bars that are around the area. Many new establishments are also still occupying these buildings. In short, the old town is like a square and there’s a center that connects the dots from north to south east to west.

Oldest Church in Semarang

One of the attraction is the oldest Church in Semarang called “ Bleduk Church”. This is a beautiful european styled church built in 1753. It was the first sight that was mesmerizing when i got to Semarang. I felt like I was in a different place and it wasn't in Indonesia. The front yard of the church is packed with either people who hangout around the courtyard or simply curious people like myself who are mesmerized by its architecture. One tip for me, the best way to take picture of the church is from the NILLM in front of it.

NILLM Building

Just in front of the 18th century church there’s a government owned building called JiwaSraya company. Much like during the past, they are also in the insurance sector and have the New Indies Architecture even said to be the first modern building with an elevator in Java. When I was there, the building is vacant and looks pretty well protected. I am honestly curious of what's inside the building but it's as haunting as any other buildings around the area. Next to that building, there's an alleyways that has a great view of the church.

Oudetrap Building

On the west side of the church there’s Oudertrap building that used to store clovesand its function changes over the years. However, in recent times government backed events are held over there just like when I visited, I saw literary events being held in the building.

Commercial Area

In this commercial area, there are restaurants and starbucks. Some local establishments and companies are also occupying the buildings around it. Somehow, the atmosphere is quite different around here that it really fits if you play jazz music while waking through the area.

There's also a museum but it was closed. So, I didn't go there but just seeing the building across the street from Starbucks.

More building the way to the old hidden well

Old Well Area

On the way to the old hidden well

Walking to the western side of the old city, there are office buildings and also some historical buildings that are now private office sectors. There are benches and alluring alleyways that certainly live up to its name, The little Netherland. When I was walking to this area, I saw a group of middle aged women taking pictures, a couple who were doing their pre-wedding picture wearing the traditional javanese attire. I mean, they really picked the great spot to do that. Somehow, since I don’t use any map, I just happened to visit the antique market that was filled with gemstones and local weaponry. Only later I found out, I was walking to the center again, back to the church where it all started.

some kind of storage from the past

Weeskamer area

Around the weeskamer area, there are some old styled cafe and next to it is the police office. Interestingly during the recent G20, this building was also use to held a fair. The building itself is quite historical and also held importance during the VOC occupaction just like the article attached mentioned. Although when I was there, the building was closed and only the windows were open. There were many people taking pictures in front of it as well.

Around the area, there are many fountains like that. In modern indonesia, we don't have those fountain although it certainly would be nice if fountain culture is being introduced once again.

After exploring around the weeskamer, I ended up going back to the center nearby the church sit in one of the benches available next to the church. Then, walk back to where I was staying and order the most delicious Hainan rice with pork that I’ve ever tried.

Should you go there?

My impression about the place was delightful. Since I like history and historical architecture, this place provides more insight to new indies architecture. Fun fact, the style is European architecture but adjusted to tropical climate which has wide eaves or prominent roof. I got to know more about a new style of architecture that I have often seen but can’t quite understand until I was in Semarang and immersed in these buildings. From various conversation I had, it seems like Semarang bay area is also worth visiting as much as their mountainous range that offers fresh air and breathtaking views. Maybe one day I'll get there.When I think about it now, this city is definitely my top favorite place in Java to visit. Not only because the city is well-connected, they also have delicious food, plenty alcohol and beers, and endless entertainment to check out.