Dogs have become part of our lives. We see them everywhere here in the Philippines. Some of them live in our homes and treated as part of the family while some are strays living in the streets. There are also those who serve specific purposes for their owners like rescue and therapy dogs. The guide dogs I met in Maligcong were a mix of all these types. They live with a family, free to roam around the mountains, and accompanies the tourists as guides.
Those who were able to live with dogs would agree with me that they have feelings and they can reciprocate the love that you give them. We’ve all shed some tears upon losing one. My family loves dogs. It came to a point where we had 15 puppies at home and things got out of hand. There’s something really endearing about them that makes us feel connected and attached. It’s rare to know someone who doesn’t have a soft spot for dogs.
I’ve never heard about Maligcong until I did some research for less popular spots in Mountain Province. Banaue would always be on top of everyone’s list when you talk about rice terraces but I chose Maligcong for its unfamiliar and less touristy experience.
It was raining when I arrived at my homestay. There was no one around to welcome me except four dogs guarding the gate. I sure love dogs but I’ve also seen how violent they can get when agitated. The dogs barked at me non-stop. I didn’t move and tried to call the owner. She went out right away and opened the gate for me. Seeing my hesitation in getting near her pets, she gave me an assurance that they’re harmless. Once I started moving, the dogs ran towards me and played around. My fear eventually turned into bliss. As it turned out, those were barks of excitement that they were giving me earlier. I was then introduced to each of them - Kunig, Maku, Tiny and Misty.
I walked around to familiarize myself with the place before starting my trek scheduled the next day. I was the only tourist that day and you won’t see much locals in the streets and outside their houses.
The rice terraces can be reached with just a few steps from the homestay. I tried not to go far since it’s quite getting late but I still got a glance on what this destination has to offer.
I figured out that the reason why the village seemed like a ghost town was because most locals were actually out in their farms.
It was after the harvest season when I arrived so some locals were saying that I might get disappointed with the view since the rice terraces were covered with water instead of its famous green landscape. I didn’t mind hearing that. I have learned to love and accept whatever a destination gives me. It may be not what I expected but it always turns out great and it’s up to me to take it as an opportunity to offer a different perspective in my photographs.
The call time was 3:30 AM the next day so I slept early and set my alarm at 3:00 AM. I was having a long good sleep when a sound of something scratching my door woke me up. Being alone in my room far into the night, I couldn’t help but imagine crazy things. The scratching stopped and the barking began. I sighed in relief when I found out it was Kunig. The dog was pushing my door and I knew he was trying to tell me something. When I checked the time, it was exactly 3:00 AM and my phone was on silent mode. I was really thankful that Kunig served as my alarm. I opened my door and gave the dog some petting for a job well done.
Curious on what just happened, I asked my guide about the dogs and he told me that they live with the owner’s family and they became used to the schedule of the tourists spending a night in the homestay. The dogs would accompany the guests during the trek and serve as guides.
It was amusing to see these dogs walk with us as we start the trek. They would sometimes go ahead then stop to check on us if we’re on the same path. If we trail behind, we’d see them sit and wait from afar.
We sometimes lose sight of them but the guide told me that the dogs were thinking that we’re heading to Mt. Fato since most tourists go there on their first day. After a while, they’ll catch up and lead the way again.
My furry friends were waiting for us when we arrived at the peak of Mt. Kupapey. They sat with me as I catch my breath and appreciate the beauty of nature. I now see why the locals were saying that the rice terraces are best seen from the top. The view I’ve seen the day before when I was walking on the paddies paled in comparison to the scenery at the summit. The contrast between the water on the surface of the paddies and the walkways created patterns.
The guide explained to me how this view is different from the world-famous Banaue rice terraces. The one in Maligcong isn’t confined in one area only. The paddies are more spread along the mountains and the planting season vary in each area. That means you’ll be able to see the paddies in their different stages of growth when you visit all the areas.
Fog started to envelop the mountains and our path became less visible. It was through the help of the guide dogs that we were able to find our way towards our next destination - Favarey Village.
From afar, a village cloaked in fog slowly unveiled itself to us. It was like a scene from a fairytale.
We met locals along the way who spoke a language that I quite understood since it’s similar to Ilocano. I asked one farmer for a photo to which she willfully obliged. I tried my best to communicate and learn more about their culture but it started raining so we had to hurry as the village was starting to again be covered with fog.
As we go near the village, the rain stopped, the fog lifted and Favarey revealed itself. The placement of the houses and the trees on top gave the village a really interesting character. My creative mind kept on imagining a giant tortoise carrying the village on its back and ready to lift it anytime just like in the story books.
With the fog heavily surrounding Favarey, it would sometimes appear like the village was floating. We climbed on top where the trees are located to witness a different view of the rice terraces. It was harvest season in this part of Maligcong.
I silently observed how the farmers work. The unity and hard work of the community were awe-inspiring.
Seeing how vast the land area was, I asked about how much do the farmers earn. The guide smiled at me and explained that the harvested rice are only for daily consumption and not for financial gain like how it is in other parts of the country. The community works hand in hand to feed their families.
The harvested rice crops are kept inside storage houses. These houses were carefully built to make sure pests can’t get inside and infest the food supply. You can never go hungry in Maligcong. There’s more than enough food for everyone.
Near the end of the trek, we met an old woman walking really slow. The full-sleeve tattoo on both of her arms immediately caught my attention. She’s part of a tribe who lives near the village. Her determination to continue working despite her age motivated me to dedicate more time with my craft. No one is old enough to farm in Maligcong.
I was so tired when we were back at the homestay but seeing the dogs joyfully wagging their tails after that long trek lifted my spirits. I think that’s innate in every dog. They’re sensitive to their owner’s feelings and know exactly what to do to make you feel better. We don’t call them man’s best friend for nothing, right?
I hope this post helps us appreciate our dogs even more for the love we get from them. From a simple lick on your face and greetings every time you get home to bravely defending you from strangers, dogs show their love in different forms but one thing is certain, they have all touched our lives. Now, give your furry friend the treat that he deserves!
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