Hello friends. Today I want to talk about my visit to Sintra, Portugal. The last time I was here, I only visited Monserrate Park and Palace. This time I decided to make up for it because there have been many recent additions to the area. So, I skipped the classics, but my trip was still incredibly fascinating.
First I stopped by the Albuquerque Foundation. This place is newly opened and captivating. I think it’s a rather traditional type of organization for Portugal, an old Quinta San Juu estate has been reconstructed and transformed into an art foundation integrated with modern architecture. As always it has been designed with great sensitivity. The founder of this foundation, former engineer Renato de Albuquerque, is of Brazilian descent and owns one of the most prominent private collections, particularly of Chinese ceramics. His collection is so remarkable that he lends pieces to institutions like the Metropolitan Museum and the Victoria & Albert Museum. Now he has decided to showcase his collection in his own estate.
The estate consists of several structures. The first is a restored historic mansion that now serves as a shop selling original ceramic pieces. The prices seemed relatively affordable, at least to me. Inside, there’s also an elegant library and a charming café. Everything from the furnishings to the décor, exudes sophistication and luxury while preserving historical elements. The azulejo tiles and stone flooring are especially striking.
Next there is a completely modern and astonishing pavilion. Only a portion of it is visible from above. it appears as a glass cube topped with a dramatic cantilevered roof. The structure is about 30 meters long and is quite complex from an engineering perspective. Renato de Albuquerque’s expertise certainly came into play here.
Designed by the Brazilian architectural studio Bardes Architecture, the main exhibition space is located beneath this glass cube. You descend via a magnificent spiral staircase and when I visited, there was an exhibition of Chinese ceramics from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The interior design is exceptionally well thought out. There is a seamless interplay between glass, metal and wood, creating a dialogue between indoor and outdoor spaces, with a perfect balance of natural and artificial light. The exhibition setup is a masterpiece in itself. I have never seen museum displays like these before. There is no glare or reflection, allowing for an uninterrupted viewing experience.
From here you can also see how delicately the exhibition pavilion has been integrated into the historic landscape, as the structure is embedded into the ground. The landscaping is phenomenal, with skilled gardeners having done an outstanding job. There is a small fountain with a pool, relaxation areas, benches and charming nooks to explore.
Another exhibition space is the modern pavilion, located at the lowest level of the garden. Naturally it is designed for contemporary collections. This time the focus is still on ceramics, featuring the works of Chicago-based artist Theaster Gates. Gates works in a fascinating style he calls Afro-Qing, which combines the aesthetics of the Black is Beautiful movement with the ceramic traditions of China, Korea and Japan. The result is highly original. The pavilion itself is also quite unique, with at least two fully transparent sides. It blends seamlessly with the landscape and is barely noticeable from above. The floor features a modern ceramic design, which looks incredibly stylish. Architecturally this pavilion has a slightly modernist touch, perhaps in the strip windows facing the garden or the massive glass doors. It also seems like it will host educational events alongside contemporary art exhibitions.
I found this space impressive and I wanted to share this experience with you.
