Compared to many other cities in Morocco, Marrakech is a beautiful hot mess that has its own beat. As the fourth largest city in the country after Casablanca, Fez and Tangier, Marrakech is the most important of Morocco's former imperial cities, with its old fortified city that is known for its medina, packed with vendors and their stalls (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), bordered by modern neighborhoods, the most prominent of which is Gueliz. After experiencing the tranquility and chill vibe of Essaouira the first day in Marrakech was a drastic, slightly overwhelming contrast, that you end up missing, once you leave the city.
As we walk through the labyrinth of the twisting alleyways of the medina, we encounter the hustle and bustle that enfolds itself in front of us in these narrow and windy roads. Every means of transportation is allowed; donkeys, mopeds, pushcarts, sack barrows, bicycles, Tuc Tucs, trucks, you name it, fly past us, as we dodge left and right to avoid being hit or getting in anyone's way. It's surprising that no accidents occur, but everyone seems to know their place and moves aside quickly, to make way for whatever is coming through.
What is striking in the medina of Marrakech are the thousands of market stalls filled with artisanal crafts. From brassware to glassware, silverware to lacquerware, leather goods and fabrics the souks present a mind-boggling selection of handicrafts. A good bargain is lingering at every corner, as is a merchant, who is trying to lure you in to purchase something at an often way to overpriced rate.
Yet we wonder how some of these people survive, as there is such an abundance of goods and stalls, it's hard to believe that everyone sells enough to come up for their living expenses. All streets eventually lead to the legendary Jemaa el-Fnaa – a huge square where acrobats, snake charmers, fortune-tellers, and Henna artists compete for your attention. From Day to Night you can hear the drum rhythms carry far beyond the square and in the evening hours the plentiful food stalls appear that all serve the same dishes, some presented in a tastier looking way than others. Marrakech has a lot to offer, for the ears, the eyes and of course the tastebuds.
At nighttime, you can enjoy the marvelous sunset at one of the many rooftop bars the city has to offer. One of our favorite spots was Le Salama that stood out for the hundreds of flowerpots dangling from the ceiling, creating a very special vibe, which we get to experience in the good company of some friends from Berlin, that coincidentally are in town at the same time.
There constantly is something to see in Marrakech, as the city never seems to sleep and it's fun to wander and get lost in the medina, as you'll always discover something new. As our Riad is located at the Northern ends of the Medina, every night we had to make our way back through the died down alleyways, that now seem like a sleepy Kraken with its sprawling tentacles. This maze succeeds in getting to us day by day, as we make one wrong turn, which leads us to a dead-end and eventually into the arms of the youngsters of the Medina, seeking to make a lucky penny by leading you back to your Riad.
As Marrakech lies north of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, we decide to get away for a day and head to Ourika, which is about a 60km drive from Marrakech. Situated in the foothills of the High Atlas, it connects several little Berber villages with female co-operatives manufacturing Argan oil, carpet weavers, and other craftswomen and men working on artisanal goods. In the village of Ourika itself, there is a beautiful hike you can take to the waterfalls.
If you bring time and organize this trip yourself you can hike up to seven waterfalls in total and really have a marvelous nature experience. Five Days later our adventure is over.
Rich in experiences and some purchased goods, we leave, knowing we will be back.
