I had a break between jobs yesterday so I pulled up to a beach in Scott's Head. I love this little town I’ve only ever been here once before but it has a real good vibe to the place. Its slow paced, super relaxed and still has a huge surf culture and a killer vintage shop! I’m a sucker for second hand items especially good fabrics. I know they’ve been loved, worn in and the quality is still there otherwise I figured they would have went to the bin instead.
The air at the beach wasn’t cold and it wasn’t hot it was perfect. The waves were crashing and the light was dancing it was just beginning to go down so I whipped out my camera and took a couple snaps before I was approached by Justin or Jussy as he also called himself, we had a good chat he was super friendly a real happy guy with a huge passion for surfing.
He checked out my camera gear and asked if I was a photographer, I’m not its just a hobby of mine. I let him know that but he proceeded to tell me that I should photograph him surfing and that there was a killer break he wanted to show me (the secret spot snapper point).
Now i don’t know if Justin was pulling my leg but he was telling me he was a pro surfer back in the day and that he had infact been featured in some magazines. He began rattling off some magazine names I'd never heard of. I don’t follow the sport of surfing closely so I honestly had no idea what he was talking about.
Justin showed me some pictures of him surfing in Hawaii where he has another place so he floats between Hawaii and Australia but he went back late last year for the Billabong pipeline comp. Anyways he gave me his email and contact number and asked that 
Later on in the evening I spoke with a couple of locals one guy from my favourite vintage store was telling me that a lot of retired pro surfers resided in Scotts Head drawn to a famous break back in the 90’s which was later washed away in a storm and that often some avid surfers would recognise some of the retired surfers or board shapers in the street.
My last inspection I met a tenant Brenton. He was a keen surfer himself and had moved to the area for this reason, he mention the break and that the sand was returning the epic break that Scotts Head was so famous for was back. He was also onto the secret spot, seems it isn’t so secret unless I got real lucky 2 out of 3 knew of its existence haha!
Peace :)
