Steps in Sewing Two step pleated bustier top

Let me take you through how I made padded double pleating ( peplum) top for a client.

Having my measurements , I lay out my dulface fabric folded it into 2, measure the half length which is 16.5" and I added 1" to it for seam allowance
On the horizontal line: mark out the breast point, Breast cut.
On the vertical: I mark out the nipple to nipple which is 7" divide into two giving 3.5" add 0.5" for the joining it.

At the up part, I measure the shoulder measurement which is 15" divided into two giving 7.5, added 0.5" for sleeve allowance

From where it stop, I mark out my armhole length which is 8"inches

At the nipple to nipple Iine on the breastcut I mark out 1andquarter inches to left and to the right down to the half length then curve and link it together to the armhole side to make it princess bustier shape.
I Measure the body measurements (burst, under burst waist and waist) divided by 4

Then I proceed to cutting of the back, starting from the shoulder measurement to the armhole and the body measurements adding zipper allowance to it

After that I lay it on the lace fabric to cut the exact out and on the lining also.

The full blouse length is 24" so I subtract the half-length 16.5" from the 24" giving 8.5" for the peplum.

I cut out the first layer which is 6" inches with seam allowance for d width and 9.5" inches for the second layer with seam allowance and the length will be long enough to make a pleat.

I also add dulface to the two layers for the pleating.

Next is the sleeve, the sleeve length is 16"inches and the arm circumference is 18" the bicept is 14" and the elbow hand is 11"inches

Then proceed to joining of the dulface under the lace fabric and using the lining to turn it out. I did that to the front and back

After that I did the joining shoulder of the front to the back, then I rule out the body measurements to shape it out .

After that I lay the dulface under the lace fabric and turn it out then I first pleat the small part to the half length part round the waist, then I lay the 2nd layer part on it to pleat as well.