This is a place I have wanted to visit for years; after seeing a programme about it on the telly. I could have stayed here for hours it just struck a nerve, it was so atmospheric. It was just a shame that the wankers, miserable fuckers, people I was travelling with showed little interest and rushed themselves along.
The guide was told politely that, "You promised an hour, I am having an hour" "They can sit on the bus and wait". What is it with some tourists from across the Atlantic "doing" Europe, and not soaking it all up. I mean history? all they have is cowboys 'n injuns, right?
A pathway leads from a modern chapel to the Hill of Crosses.
The Hill of Crosses is not only a pilgrimage site but also a symbol of defiance against anti-religious Soviet rule.
Repeated efforts by the Soviets through the 60's and 70's to bulldoze the small hill failed. The locals were not deterred, despite the threat of harsh punishments if caught, they, under the cover of darkness creeping up to place crosses and religious paraphernalia. Guess that pissed the authorities off, but the hill still remains today.
Folklore and legend through the mysts of time abound around the Hill of Crosses. Some claim that the mound conceals the bodies of ancient warriors, others that it's haunted by monks. Another offering is that it is a site of pre-Christian worship.
Heroes past and present A group of prominent Lithuanian intellectuals were arrested by the Gestapo in March 1943 and sent to the Stutthof concentration camp in retaliation for boycotting a German SS recruitment campaign.
Very westernised images of the "virgin" Mary and JC
Wood plastic and metal, simple devotional crosses some accompanied by prayers, a photograph or other mementos of the deceased, or the giving of thanks, to the man in the clouds for imagined gifts.
The tradition of placing crosses is traced back to The 1831 Lithuanian Uprising that was part of the larger Polish-Russian War where Lithuanians, Belarusians, and Ukrainians rose against the Russian Empire. It is estimated that in 1900 there were just over 100 crosses placed, and now it is estimated at being well in excess of 100,000.
Big, small and all sizes inbetween, some expensive (why do some religious zealots flaunt their wealth in worship, was not JC the son of a carpenter, who shunned worldly goods, or so the fairy stories tell us) whilst others are cheap and inexpensive but carry just as much meaning, if not more.
The Sorrowful Christ (Rūpintojėlis).
There are finely carved folk-art pieces, adorned with baubles bangles and beads.
A traditional Lithuanian wooden chapel post, a stogastulpis. These posts are recognised by UNESCO as a masterpiece of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
It is permissible for anyone to plant a cross here, it is also forbidden to remove any article from the site.
A wonderful experience, it did not disappoint, I guess there are lots of folk who come here for spiritual reasons, so be it.
"May your god go with you"
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