Fiji: Calling Me Back to Paradise

Fiji was the first country we visited by boat. We made a fast passage from New Zealand, covering about 1100 nautical miles (2200 km). We put up the sails in New Zealand and took them down in Fiji – truly the easiest passage we've had, considering this part of the Pacific Ocean can be one of the most dangerous passages in the world. 

We were travelling in a rally of approximately 20 boats, and we had the option for our entry port of either going to Denarau, which is on the west side of Fiji, or Savusavu, which is further in and closer to the Lau Group. This is the area where we spent the next two months.  

Following what might have been the easiest check-in process, it was only delayed due to our place in line behind ten other boats, we lingered in Savusavu for three blissful days. There, we transformed our vessel from offshore-ready to cruising mode, readying ourselves for the adventures ahead.

Our journey commenced towards Taveuni Island on a blustery day, the sea tossing and turning beneath us. Despite our hopes for a tranquil anchorage, the protected spot proved less than ideal. Nevertheless, our spirits soared as we were warmly greeted by the locals at the dive resort. Immersing ourselves in the vibrant underwater world, we savoured moments of tranquillity beneath the waves before bidding farewell and setting sail once more.

What makes Fiji so special? It's definitely the people. Don't get me wrong, Fiji has some beautiful spots and the nature is amazing – it's definitely paradise. But the people are truly special. Always smiling and always welcoming, something we should take home to our countries. However, In this post, I want to talk about a specific island.

We were getting ready to leave the Lau group and go to the west of Fiji when a local sailor who spent 40 years in Fiji suggested that, we go to Moce Island, this island has a very tricky passage that only crazy sailors attempt, so after lots of discussions with our sailor friends who are on a 60ft steel ketch Boat we said they should go first since if they hit the reef, it really doesn't matter since they will probably bounce of the reef and keep going. For us it's different, Fibreglass doesn't like reefs so we avoid them as much as possible. So they went first into the reef with satellite images guiding them since there are no charts for this area. we made up our minds and they went in first and we followed in. After lots of shouting and close calls, we were inside the lagoon and found our anchor spot. 

We lowered our dinghies and made our way to shore, bearing a humble gift of kava—a traditional drink made from plant roots known for its tranquil effects (and surprisingly pleasant taste, in my opinion). With anticipation coursing through us, we approached the chief's dwelling.

As we presented the kava to the chief, a warm smile graced his face, and he graciously accepted our offering. With a welcoming gesture, he extended his hospitality, granting us permission to fish in the island's waters and explore its lush terrain at our leisure. This simple act of acceptance reaffirmed our connection to the island and its people, setting the stage for unforgettable adventures ahead.

Each morning, the island came alive with rhythmic banging, drawing us to its source. There, we found the women of Moce Island hard at work, practicing the age-old tradition of tapa-making.

With wooden sticks and determination, they pounded the bark of a specific tree until it resembled delicate paper. This transformed material became their canvas, upon which they intricately depicted patterns, shapes, and symbols using tree roots as their colours.

From dawn till dusk, these women devoted themselves to their craft, not only providing for their community but also preserving Fiji's rich cultural heritage. Moce Island thrived, its wealth stemming from both the abundance of suitable trees and the high demand for their exquisite tapa creations.

The first three days passed quietly. But on the fourth day, we visited the local school and made some friends. After that, we were welcomed into homes, fed, and became known throughout the entire island. All 450 residents were familiar with us, and for the next week, we worked alongside the teenagers, farming and attending school.

We were embraced as if we belonged from the moment we set foot on the island. Our days were filled with laughter, shared meals, and working alongside the villagers, rather than spending time confined to our boat. It was a unique experience, unlike any other friendships I've formed in my life. We weren't just visitors; we became an integral part of their community, welcomed as brothers. This was the authentic Fiji, a side of paradise rarely mentioned but deeply cherished in our memories.

During our time on the island, we embarked on six-hour hikes, went spearfishing, threw parties, and simply revelled in exploring every corner. As our days there dwindled, a sense of sadness crept in, knowing our unforgettable adventure was drawing to a close. Yet, the bonds we forged remained strong, with plans already brewing to reunite with the islanders in the future.

On the sixth day, a friend invited me to lunch with his family, where I met their adorable two-year-old cousin. However, upon sitting down, she burst into tears. Perplexed, I asked what was wrong, only to discover that she had never seen someone with white skin before. It was a moment that etched itself into my memory forever.

A similar encounter unfolded when an elderly woman approached me, gently touching my arm to experience the unfamiliar sensation of white skin. These interactions, though unexpected, left a lasting impression, reminding me of the beauty and diversity found in the world around us.

On the last day, we planted coconut trees as a memory for when we return. As we began to motor out of the lagoon, all the children poured out of the school, followed by the entire village, waving goodbye and singing a heartfelt song in unison. In that emotional moment, it was impossible not to shed a tear. I will never forget this island and the lifelong friends I made in just 10 days.

I hope you enjoyed this post. Let's see how I will do in the Travelfeed Hive Contest: Place you want to revisit. If you want to see similar content, please feel free to check out my profile.

Paul