I took the train out of Irkutsk on Friday 19/06 at 22H02, due to arrive on Sunday 21 at 05H03 in the capital of Mongolia: Ulan-Baator, about 30 hours later.
I shared my compartment with a 60 years old Israeli man, doing as well the Trans-Mongolian journey. He spent about 25 years working as a self-employed sales man, retiring comfortably at the age of 50 and been travelling frequently since then to pass the time. The things he has seen and done was absolutely amazing and I am glad I left the office as it’s giving me opportunity to meet interesting people who found ways to enjoy their lives rather than spending it working.
A great thing about Trans-Mongolian rail trip is that you end up living with some new persons for 30 to 50 hours with nothing much to do so you share your life stories and at the end of the journey it’s like you have known them for years.
We stopped at the border on the Russian side. Took about 5 hours just to complete the paperwork. This little border town was filled with young Russian soldiers visibly bored in their duty to protect the border with Mongolia.
The train then moved on and after crossing the border, Mongol solders and officials stepped in the train to check the passports. I was shocked to be greeted with smiles and “Welcome to Mongolia” talk, it was light years away from the cold dealings with Russian officials I dealt with over the past 2 weeks.
As the train is moving to his destination, the landscape around does no feature anymore taiga/trees but kilometres of vast steppes with hundred of animals, tents (ger) and sometimes horse riders moving casually along the tracks . I’ve noticed that having crossed the border, people faces look so different (Central Asian rather than Caucasian type).
Upon arrival to UB (Ulan Bator), I went straight to my hostel. I met there a young Israeli backpacker whose life problem was to find where to buy a horse to ride solo up to the border and through Siberia to Irkutsk (so hundred of kilometers). I realized that whatever I could do, there would be always someone doing something more adventurous! I booked a 4 days tour in the country side starting the next day and so went to explore UB. It’s not particularly a beautiful city and it looks like a typical soviet time urban landscape I’m used to.
I found out that Mongolian are people really proud of their history, there are many references all over the place of the time of Gengis Khan and Mongol empire: from the currency, street name, statues, beers, museums etc.. Gengis Khan is a national hero and the cruelty of the Mongol invasions in the thirteen century seems slightly overlooked.
Coming back at the hostel, I met a French bacpacker who has been travelling for nearly a year, using volunteering opportunities. He came back from 3 weeks in a Mongol farm where he had to sleep and work rough, including butchering animals but nevertheless he found the experience quite positive.
Next day, I’m ending up in a 4×4 with a Finnish couple, a guide and a non-English speaking driver on my way out of UB for some proper life with the nomads. The roads outside the capital are just 2 lanes road and seems to go straight without any end in sight. The roads in Mongolia are the worst I have seen in my life, the driver spent his time zigzaging between the 2 lanes due to sheer amount of potholes and in some occurrences no road at all ! The landscape around was absolutely beautiful, just hundred of animals (goats, cow, horses, sheep, etc..) moving freely around, often right in the middle of the road and horsemen looking after their herds.
Arriving in the nomad camp, we had a ger waiting for us (traditional Mongolian tent) in a breathtaking surrounding. No shower and toilets traditional (hole in the ground). On the first night, the local men were doing signs that they wanted to wrestle with me (it’s a national sport). I had a go at it and after biting the dust few times, I lowered my ambition in staying on my feet as long as possible. It seems after this, I was well integrated with the nomads. So In Russia, you need to drink to make friends but here in Mongolia you need to wrestle!
I spent the next days doing horse & camel riding and trekking to temple (I discovered that this species of camel like to spit on you when they don’t know you).
The food was great, mainly based of sheep meat. The chief of the family was 75 years old and I was amazed how fresh & happy he was. He spent a nomad life with his animals, tents & family in a beautiful landscape. I envy him as the 4 days I spent there were some of the most relaxing and inspiring I had for years. It seems a much more healthy lifestyle than taking the tube to commute to work every day.
I’m going back with sighs to the capital and spent time exploring the nightlife . We found out there was some sort of law where the pub & clubs are meant to close at midnight when the police arrived at the pub at 00H30. Music stopped, the pub owner went outside with the police and 20 min later (after some cash changing hands) the music resumed. Mongolia has some corruption challenges . Nowpreparing my arrival to Beijing on Monday 30 June.
