After spending Christmas with my family in Rouen, I felt the need for some space. I really enjoy family time, but after a while, I need to find myself again.
So, I embarked on a spontaneous seaside getaway, a journey of just an hour and twenty minutes. Without taking the highway, I headed towards Honfleur, a charming coastal town that seemed just a stone's throw away. This proximity to Rouen made the decision even more tempting – a perfect post-holiday escape.
Vieux-Bassin / Honfleur
I hardly ever take the highway. Partly for economic reasons, but mostly because I find it much more interesting to take small roads rather than major routes. It's how you discover little paradises. For instance, my girlfriend and I found a perfect spot to stop for a meal on our way to Le Mans from Rouen. But that might be a topic for another Hive post.
Back to the matter at hand!
Honfleur, with its cobblestone streets and colorful facades, awaited me.
In reality, I had been there several times before, but as a child. I also went last year with my girlfriend, but it was in the height of summer, and it was too crowded, so we quickly turned back without taking the time to explore.
However, I had heard several times about its picturesque Old Harbor and its narrow alleys, a labyrinth of discoveries and history.
Upon arriving in Honfleur, I was immediately captivated by the maritime atmosphere in the air. However, it was the day after a storm (December 28, 2023), and there was still a lot of wind.
Despite that, there were many people around. The lively streets, lined with picturesque shops and welcoming cafes, unfolded before me.
Finding a parking spot turned out to be a little adventure in itself. I parked in the first parking lot I found, costing 6€ - a sum I found quite high, especially after discovering that just 200 meters away, there was a more spacious and free parking lot available. The advantage of my parking lot was that it was just a stone's throw from the center of Honfleur.
With this in mind, I took out the lunch I had prepared in advance.
Nothing too extravagant, but flavors that are dear to me: a fresh baguette from the local bakery, a piece of terrine prepared by my father for Christmas, and a garlic sausage, a classic of our picnics. And for dessert, a selection of cheeses that would make any connoisseur salivate - Comté and Époisses.
I wolfed all this down sitting in my car. The wind outside was far too strong to enjoy my picnic at a picnic table.
After this gourmet break, it was time to start my exploration.
After finishing my lunch in the privacy of my car, lulled by the gusts of wind, I ventured towards the Vieux-Bassin of Honfleur, a place brimming with history and character.
It was just a 2-minute walk from my parking spot.
As I approached, I was immediately struck by the timeless beauty of the harbor. The reflections of the colorful houses in the calm waters of the basin created a living painting, evoking scenes from a bygone era.
For a bit of history, the Vieux-Bassin, created during the reign of Louis XIV at the behest of Colbert, has been the beating heart of Honfleur since its inception in 1681.
This basin has seen generations of sailors, merchants, and artists parade over its time-worn cobblestones. Years ago, it was the starting point for many maritime expeditions, notably to the New World, and played a key role in the commercial development of the region.
Wandering along the quays, I let myself be transported by the atmosphere of the place.
The narrow houses with their wooden facades and half-timbered windows told the story of an era when Honfleur was a hub of trade and innovation.
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It was in this setting that renowned painters like Gustave Courbet, Claude Monet, and Eugène Boudin were inspired by the unique light and ambiance of Honfleur. Their works, now famous, have helped to showcase the beauty of this Norman port beyond the borders of France.
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In this festive period, the Christmas market added an extra touch of cheerfulness. The colorful and illuminated stalls, offering local specialties and handcrafted items, created a warm atmosphere despite the crowd.
I didn't venture too much into it because there were a lot of people, and I preferred to stay on the sidelines.
This first stop in my Honfleur journey not only allowed me to soak in the rich history of the city but also to feel the enduring connection between its maritime past, artistic heritage, and vibrant present.
Even though I had been to Honfleur last year, I hadn't had the time to see the inside of the city and had just passed through by car (it was too crowded as it was summer).
This time, I really wanted to take my time.
After leaving the bustle of the Vieux-Bassin, my path led me through the narrow streets of the city.
In fact, every street corner revealed a new facet of Honfleur's rich heritage. While wandering, I stumbled upon historic buildings that bear witness to the city's medieval past, a period less mentioned but equally fascinating.
Among these architectural gems, the Sainte-Catherine Church, entirely built of wood by the city's shipwrights in the 15th century, stands out.
This church, the largest wooden church in France with a separate bell tower, symbolizes the ingenuity and craftsmanship of Honfleur's artisans.
Its unique architecture reflects the connection between the town and the sea, reminiscent of overturned ship hulls.
I couldn't visit it as there was a funeral in progress, but I will surely return!
Continuing my stroll, I passed by the Museum of Ethnography and Norman Folk Art, housed in a 16th-century building. This museum offers a captivating glimpse into daily life in Normandy across different eras, with collections of everyday objects and folk art.
The Grenier à Sel, another point of historical interest, caught my attention.
Built in the 17th century, these two large buildings were used to store salt, essential for the fish trade. Today, they have been transformed into cultural spaces, hosting exhibitions and events.
Honfleur is not just an open-air museum; it's a living city where history blends harmoniously with contemporary life.
Historic buildings stand alongside modern art galleries and designer boutiques, creating a dialogue between the ages.
No wonder it's among the most beautiful villages in France!
My walk eventually led me to a less frequented path, lined with greenery and history, winding its way to the Seine. This discreet and peaceful path offered a striking contrast to the hustle and bustle of the central streets.
Walking along this trail, I found myself facing a different aspect of Honfleur, its intimate relationship with the Seine.
The Seine has always been a vital artery for Honfleur, connecting the city to the outside world.
Over the centuries, I imagine that the waters of this river have seen ships of all sizes passing by, carrying goods, ideas, and dreams.
Along its banks, commercial and cultural exchanges have shaped the history of Honfleur, giving it its status as a major port in the region.
By the Seine, I discovered the Jardin des Personnalités, a tribute to those who have marked the history of Honfleur.
This garden, dotted with busts and commemorative plaques, celebrates figures such as the composer Erik Satie, born in Honfleur, and the navigator Samuel de Champlain, who played a key role in the exploration of Canada.
Each statue and each name told a story, linking Honfleur's past to its present and future.
Following the river, I arrived at a viewpoint where the majestic Pont de Normandie stood. This modern bridge, an engineering feat, connects Honfleur to Le Havre. It has a total length of 2,141 meters!
Standing there, in front of the Seine, I took a moment to reflect on everything I had seen and learned. Honfleur, with its rich maritime history, close ties with art and culture, and commitment to preserving its heritage while embracing the future, deeply moved me.
I continued on my way. In the distance, one can glimpse Le Havre, a port city known for its harbor.
Then, I continued and arrived at the beach. There were already far fewer people due to the wind and the sand flying everywhere. I did not venture any further.
All the photos were taken with my phone.
