When we’re traveling within Spain, we often try to stay in a Parador. Part of a state-run chain that stretches across the country, these hotels are usually housed in historic buildings like castles, monasteries, or palaces, as well as in scenic natural areas. Looking at the list of hotels, we came across one situated in Lleida, and decided to go on a two-night road trip from Valencia. This time, we chose our destination based on the hotel, instead of the other way around.
We rented a car in Valencia and set out toward the north, into Catalunya. About four hours later, we arrived, and drove straight to the Parado de Lleida. This hotel is set inside a beautifully restored 17th-century convent, with the rooms arranged around a three story cloister. It’s beautiful! If you decide to stay here as well, we highly recommend making reservations at the hotel restaurant, located inside the old cloister church. Check out our short walk through video of the hotel, if you’re curious.
Our exploration of the town started the next morning. After a croissant and a cafe con leche, we enjoyed the early morning sun while walking along the Rio Segre to gain an initial impression of Lleida. It was a frosty winter morning, with temperatures we’ve grown unaccustomed to, from living in Valencia for so long. Arriving at the Parque de los Campos Elíseo, we admired this green space right next to the river, which boasts various styles of gardens, from American to French.
We then looped back into Lleida’s old town. Our first stop in the city center was the Old Hospital of Santa Maria, to check out the gorgeous inner courtyard from the 15th century, built in a Gothic‑Plateresque style. Everyone knows we’re huge fans of Plateresque architecture, and definitely did not need to consult Wikipedia to learn that it’s “a modification of Gothic spatial concepts and an eclectic blend of Mudéjar, Flamboyant, Gothic, and Lombard decorative components, as well as Renaissance elements of Tuscan origin”. And we certainly didn’t forget that factoid two seconds after leaving the courtyard!
We then went to the Palau de la Paeria which hosts the city hall. Visits to this 13th century construction are free, and offer a fascinating glimpse into the city’s history. You can see a 15th century Gothic altarpiece, as well as the ancient dungeons, which held prisoners into the 17th century.
Now, we moved on to the Dipòsit del Pla de l’Aigua. This cistern reminded us of the sunken cistern in Istanbul, and although it wasn’t quite as memorable or cavernous as that one, it was still atmospheric and an unexpected highlight of the day.
We decided to leave the city’s primary highlights for the next day: the La Seu Vella and Suda Castle. Rising above the other buildings, this ancient complex dominates the cityscape, is visible from miles away. If don’t want to miss our upcoming post about the cathedral and castle, please consider subscribing to our free newsletter.
