Hello, today I bring you one of the (so many) triangle bra models. In this case, unlike the previous molds, this part of size 90. Next, I will explain how the "seam allowance" is measured and how the "progression" is traced towards size 95.
From the back "base" (which would be size 90) 0.5 cm is added to the entire contour, that would be the "seam allowance" (dotted orange line). To trace the progression, start from the "seam allowance" line and add another 0.5 cm (dotted green line). This results in size 95. To go from size 95 to 100, the same steps as before must be repeated. In the case of going from a size 90 to a size 85, the 0.5 cm of "seam allowance" must be subtracted.
So it is a size 90 and a size 95 respectively.
In the case of the back, repeat the same steps that were done to trace the cup of the bra, being the "seam allowance" (0.5cm) in orange and the "progression" (0.5cm) green line.
Mold already cut
The mold on the fabric is cut directly, since the "seam allowance" is already drawn on the paper. And now to sew ...
Once the cups are set, the clamps are closed, I cut double fabric so that the seams are not noticeable. When the clamps are already closed, join the backs to each armhole.
Cross the necklines and join them.
To stretch cut 62 cm of elastic (size 90), 63 cm if it is a size 95. Place half of the elastic measure in the middle of the cups already joined and one end of the elastic to one of the ends of the rear. then sew with zigzag for elastic. Fact: as you can see in the previous image, I use elastic for a bodice, but if you want to use another elastic, that is also fine.
To sew the straps, measure 4.0 cm from center back or hook distance.
The placement of the hook would be the last thing, there are many models of hooks, I use the plastic ones but if you have the others, use those. To place the ones I use, you just have to pass the back through the slot and sew it. And so they would end the bra.
The images were taken from a bra that I made a long time ago, they had noticed that I do not stretch the armholes and the back, that is because I find it more like when wearing it.
Image taken from my Instragram 
