Malana is one of the remote villages in Himahchal Pradesh. It is famous for their cannabis cream-Malana Cream. More than that, the village is famous for their mysterious lifestyle and untouchability practices towards outsiders. Ever since I knew about Malana, I wanted to visit the village and have first-hand experience of those claims.
This blog is not about the village though but the trek to the village. Road to Malana starts from a place called Dhunkara when you come from the main road. Lucky for me, I was staying in a property in Malana road itself. So, Malana was around 14 kms from there. There is a paved road that covers 10kms and from there you need to take the trail to reach the village.
But, I had decided to walk all the way up, the whole 14kms because that was my dream for many years. Also, I've never been at this high altitude. I always fantasized about being at high altitudes and in snow. Well, there was no snow but the fall season also felt amazing.
I would say I was ill prepared for such a long journey as well. I wore a thermal and a fleece jacket only since it gets hot during the day. I also bought two snickers chocolate and a peanut bar in case there were no hotels on the way.
This is also my first time going for a solo trek. I was given a chart by a Ukrainian guy who is a travel expert and has done adventurous treks. That chart simplified the relation of oxygen and elevation for me. However, the whole concept was new to me. So, I was curious to check how my body reacts to this changes in elevation and oxygen concentration. You'll find me checking All trails app, elevation and time very often, to a point it's so cringe to watch!
However, I was asked to make the video by many I met at the village who were surprised to see someone walking all the way up. So, this blog is also dedicated to those who met me later and took time to talk!
I started from Dhunkara at 7.30 in the morning. I only have experience of walking in plane land and it usually takes me 2 hours to complete 10kms. So, I estimated triple that time. I was also told I might reach the first bridge by 11 AM. So, that was my first estimation.
Surprisingly, a dog started following me. I've always seen dogs following people in the Himalayas and it felt like a dream come true!
I also felt equally sad because he just kept following me and I didn't want him to be walking all the way hungry. So, I tried a lot to make him go back but at the end I just accepted that I'm travelling with him.
At first the roads were so good and a bit familiar. The view of the valley kept getting better with each turn. There were also few houses around the road.
I could recognize Baari, a cafe I had heard from someone. It was closed when I reached there. I also wanted to go fast before it gets hot.
After the this cafe, the number of houses started to get lesser. The views got better and better. It started to get silent and empty. It felt really nice though. Just the kind of peace I was looking for in this trip.
However, I was not used to this type of silence. The sound of leaves falling and my own steps felt very sharp. I had to make a plan to record myself. The first plan was to take a selfie at each milestone recording the distance covered and how I felt at that point.
Everything changed after 4kms. The valley looked like so pretty with colourful leaves and all of a sudden, the dog decided to disappear. By now, he had almost became my pet. I felt responsible for him. He was a such a fun soul to be around.
I later on found he was eating something from a skeleton. At first, I got scared because it seemed like a human skeleton. I've also heard stories of Parvati valley being called death valley. For sometime I questioned my decisions.
The leaves and the nature was a huge encouragement to keep moving. It was cold but sunny at the same time. I fell in love with those bright colours. It was the first time I had seen such bright oranges and yellows!
My obsession with meeting a Yeti was also another motivation. The book I'm reading currently by Sri M also has a part about him meeting a Yeti, so I always had that in the back of my mind. Even though I was on a paved road, this is the most forest-y experience I've had I guess.
At one point, I met the lady who comes to clean where I stay. She was with her kids. They had gone to the forest to collect wood. Wood is the hot commodity in these mountains. Almost all the houses are heated using a Tandoor and wood for the winter is stored at the basement of the houses.
I could never imagine such needs and hardships in life. For them, it was a usual chore.
Something else also happened here. There was a shepherd with a lot of sheep and two guard dogs camped on the side of the road. Seeing those dogs, my dog just stopped on the road. I tried a lot to make him move or go back but he just stood there staring at me.
I finally decided to walk forward hoping he would go back. But, I could see him stand there. So, I went back but he was not there. I spent around 15 minutes to check on him. Finally, ,when I met the family carrying the woods, I asked her to take him back while they go.
I waited though for few minutes hoping to see him go with them. But, I heard dogs fighting and I broke down a little bit there. It felt like my fault to make him accompany me. Well, I gathered myself up and moved on hoping to reach the bridge sooner.
The road then became completely empty. On one side it was rocks and when I walked on the other side, I could hear Parvati river. It was amazing to switch places like that and have some fun. However, you can't ignore your thoughts and emotions when you are alone for that long.
I already started to face myself and my thoughts at this point. I also picked up a few pine cones just out of curiosity. The view of the valley was incredible which made me excited about going forward.
Meanwhile, I met three older ladies who hiked all the way from Kullu through the valley. But, they stopped to have a chat with the shepherd and I continued alone. They were surprised to see a female going alone.
Here, people get married really young. 18 is a very normal age for marriage and that is very common in these villages.
I picked up a stick as well since I had no idea what was waiting for in the next turn.
Every little thing was so pure and special. The rocks had this green shade inside of it. These were mainly fallen down during the landslides and flood that happened last year. But, I stopped at many places to just process the beauty of this place.
Another interesting view was of the valley where there were green trees in the middle of dried up orange land.
When the roads changed like that, my intention to take pictures also changed. I was no more taking pictures and videos because it's impossible to capture the feeling. Even though I stopped at places to take pictures, I didn't take the camera out.
Then I started to see random markings on rocks as well. So, I assumed random measures for that. All that mattered were I could breathe and walk.
I was told to look for a two bridges and a tunnel. I had to reach them to know I was on the right path even though there is only one road. So, I got excited to see a cave and a milestone that said it's just 1.5 kms away.
Then there was a temple out of nowhere. It seemed like a view point as well. I had one snicker bar over there. By now, there were cars that went to Malana and they offered me a ride till the last stop. I politely refused since I wanted to do this walk.
It was already 10 AM and I was nowhere close to my estimated destinations. In fact, I had no clue how long it was going to take me. I also felt like I might not be able to reach the place on time. Because walking or travelling in the dark here is impossible for me. So, I had prepared my mind to get a taxi if I can't make it my own.
The 500m milestone felt like a big achievement. I finally saw a bridge around 11 AM. It was a bitter sweet moment. Because, I realized I've only covered halfway. The whole milestone was for the Malana power plant by a company called Greenco which is far away from the village.
There were many workers who did the labour carrying rocks and repairing the roads. I also got confused where to go since the road led to a check-post by the powerplant company. I was a bit confused if that was a dangerous place since I was the only outsider there.
Then I saw cars going through the check-post. So I continued walking.
I couldn't go far though. My legs were not moving. Up and until then I was just wondering why I'm not feeling any difference with the elevation and everything the guys explained. But, from here, the struggle started. It wasn't huge but I had to stop every 5 minutes at first.
Seeing the tunnel was another happy moment after the sloppy roads. It felt like I'm getting closer but nowhere at the same time. There was no sign of the village except for the stones that said the distance.
Seeing another bridge also didn't help much. I saw he signboard that said something is 7km far. I didn't understand the word though. But, another 7 kms felt too far because the roads were in bad shape.
I took this picture when I was ready to give up walking and get a ride. I was exhausted and questioning why I was doing this! Dealing with thoughts and seeking hope felt difficult at this point. There was no sign of the village or any direction.
But after few minutes I was already walking and refusing all the offers from the cabs. It was kind of thrilling to reach a goal no matter what! Maybe, partially because I was sure I could get help in case I need it.
I also felt like someone is pulling me towards the place. When I say someone, I don't mean any specific human but something! Writing this feels weird but I distinctly remember noting this down and happily walking again. I told you, mountains, snow and treks were over romanticized in my head.
At 12.30, I could see few houses on the top of the hill. That was the happiest I felt during the trek. It didn't matter how long it takes now, I knew I would reach there somehow.
However, I also felt confused when the road leads to a turn and the village disappeared. I had the peanut bars because I started to feel hungry.
Then I did something what could've been really dangerous. I saw these plants with a yellow colour berry. At first, I was very clear I should not be trying random plants and fruits here. But, at some point, I tried it.
They were tangy and squishy. It was very difficult to separate a single one and eat. And, then, I asked a few people who offered me a seat in their cab if this is edible and they said it is.
So, I did eat a few. I didn't get the name of it though. Different people said different names and Google also failed to identify it. It was so refreshing though.
From there, it was broken and dusty roads but in another hour, I was at the sign board that said, Way to Malana Village. There were also houses that were destroyed from the flood. There were hotels and cafes as well. But, I had to reach the village.
I reached the gate at 2.40PM. However, the real trek to the village started from there. It seemed easy at first but it took me another 2.30 hours to reach the village. Those two hours felt way more difficult than the entire 10 kms. I took multiple stops and reached Malana village at 5 PM.
I was also scared of taking pictures since I know there are strict rules around here. There were sheep following me and I was confused what to do. Because from the info I had, outsiders are not allowed to touch anything that belongs to the villagers.
However, I felt so blessed with many coincidences. I'll share my experience about Malana village, the reality of mysteries I heard of before coming here and more in the next blog.
But, if you are planning a trip to Malana, you can easily get a taxi till the signboard that says Way to Malana Village and do the 2.30 hour trek. It costs around Rs.1500 for a cab from Kasol. It is easy to get one to share as well.
Have you ever had that feeling of reading the last page of your favourite book? That's how I feel right now after finishing this blog. Each photos remind me of the emotions I went through during the entire journey. It was one of the beautiful and soulful treks I've ever done in my life.
On the map: [//]:# (!pinmapple 32.06514 lat 77.26978 long Malana entrance gate d3scr)
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