Hello Hive!
It's not hard to fall in love with Prague. "The City of a Hundred Spires." Its architecture is amazingly preserved with different historical styles harmoniously entwined like a lover's embrace. Both old and new fit together perfectly, as are the tourists that are more diverse than you can ever imagine. You will instantly feel the young vibe that emanates throughout the city and the old souls who are hungry for art and culture and are eager to grasp the city's rich history.
I packed my hand luggage and flew to the Czech capital for solo travel six years ago. If you've been reading this blog several posts back, I was craving to get away and have some uninterrupted time on my own and Prague ended up being the best decision I have ever made.
The magnificent skyline of Prague will lure you to explore its winding cobblestone streets, waterfront parks, and lovely bridges. This was exactly how I felt as soon as I emerged from the metro dragging my luggage to find my hotel that evening. I didn't want to miss any street. I wanted to walk and that was how I spent 4 days romancing the city and took the time to do it at a relaxed pace.
It is much easier if you book a hotel somewhere around Old Town or Wenceslas Square. I stayed in the area of IP Pavlova.
Night 1
Wander the streets at night and join a Pub Crawl that usually starts at 8 pm
Since I was traveling alone, I felt it was not wise for me to get drunk on unfamiliar ground, so I did wander around Wenceslas Square all the way to Powder Tower at night and reserved that pint for another time.
Compared to other Shengen cities, Prague is by far cheaper when it comes to shopping, dining out, and beer drinking! I ordered a pint of draft beer the following day which cost half the price of bottled mineral water. Don't worry, the tap is safe to drink. Prices however are continuously creeping up and so are the number of tourists pre-pandemic time, so it's definitely a place you would want to see as soon as you may.
Day 1
Take a free walking tour.
It's the best way to get an overview of its art and history and instantly feel comfortable finding your way around. It'll help narrow down and figure out which main attractions you want to spend more time in. I found SANDEMAN's NEW Europe Free Walking Tour recommended by Nomadic Matt and I went for it. I'm glad I did. Pavel was our guide and his passion and enthusiasm for his country's history and rich architecture were infectious.
They all meet up at the Old Town Square where the Astronomical Clock is. The tour is free indeed and it's just appropriate to tip the tour guide because that's his bread and butter. I was happy with the tour so I gave him a tip. The walking tour ends around 2 pm.
Watch the Astronomical Clock and Explore the Old Town Square.
The Clock is a medieval world wonder and tourists gather here to catch the mechanical performance every hour.
Day 2
Watch the sunrise on one of the bridges.
Even at 7 am when almost everyone else is still sleeping or having breakfast, the peace exploring the waterfront is priceless.
Cross the Charles Bridge.
Charles Bridge is a popular and historic bridge crossing the Vltava River that connects Old Town to Prague Castle reserved for pedestrians. Before 8 am is the perfect time to take photographs without many tourists. The peaceful promenade with occasional joggers is a great place to spend the morning. In the afternoon, it's lovely to relax here with a fresh pint while boat and people watching.
Enjoy the walk from Charles Bridge all the way to Prague Castle.
You can drop by St. Nicholas Church, an old Baroque church in Lesser Town with its green dome that is visible from Old Town. Delight in its very intricate interior and then climb your way up the main street headed towards Hradcanske Square.
Visit Prague Castle before tour buses arrive.
Prague Castle is a chateau complex. According to the Guinness Book of Records, it is the largest coherent castle complex in the world and is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. There's a Prague Castle Ticket available at the information office at the entrance in front of St. Vitus Cathedral to gain access to view; Old Royal Palace ( Vladislav Hall), St. Vitus Cathedral, St. George's Basilica, Golden Lane, Prague Castle Picture Gallery, Powder Tower, Story of Prague Castle and Rosenberg Castle.
A visit here can last 2 to 4 hours.
Explore the Royal Gardens.
It's free. It's separated from the castle by a moat and you will be crossing a bridge to get there. This is usually the first stop for tourists taking the Tram 22.
Here, you will get to see the Ball Game Hall, Orangery Greenhouse, Royal Summer Place, and the views of the Prague Castle Complex such as the one above.
The Golden Lane
Don't forget to pass by Golden Lane. It is within the castle grounds.
From the Eastern Gate of Prague Castle, descend the Old Castle Steps or sometimes called Old Castle Stairs. Unless you're feeling extremely physical, I opted to enjoy this path going down while watching other tourists puffing and groaning, "Are we there yet?".
Other places to see there are Strahov Monastery especially its majestic murals in the library and The Loreta, a quiet Baroque monument and church. Oh, don't forget to check out the Deer Moat Pathway.
Lennon Wall
An ever-changing graffiti wall with layers of paint and history inspired by the songs of John Lennon where students wrote their grievances in the 80s much to the irritation of the communist government at that time. A random street performer sang songs with his guitar and I couldn't help being teary-eyed here while staring at the wall. I felt strong emotions pouring out from this wall, or maybe I just drank too much beer?
Explore Kampa
Kampa, the Venice of Prague is lovely to explore. (Oops, another comparison to Venice). Check out the Museum of Kampa and the gigantic crawling babies sculpture
Visit the Kafka Museum
Fan of the great writer, Franz Kafka or not, it's still good to see. It's an excellent way to get to know him and understand Prague on yet another level. The automated Piss Fountain Sculpture of 2 men pissing is not hard to miss.
View of Kafka Museum under Charles Bridge
Walk along the waterfront all the way up to Petrin Hill. Enjoy a scenic walk up the hill. Get lost in the trees and admire both the garden and the view from the observation tower referred to as "little Eiffel Tower".
There's a lift/ elevator with wheelchair access up the tower and a funicular that can take you up and/or down Petrin Hill. The latter is valid with a train/bus ticket just in case it gets too tiring. There was an extremely long queue, so I decided to collect blisters instead and enjoy the shade of trees going up. It is not an easy-peasy hike however but worth it.
Day 3
A Walk to Vyšehrad
I have written a dedicated post previously about it.
Vyšehrad is a historical fortress on top of a cliff along the Vltava River in the southern part of Prague. It was the residence of the First King Vratislav II. Most tourists usually skip this from their itinerary so you'll enjoy the tranquility during your visit here.
Explore the Baroque Gates, ancient rotunda, Gothic Church of Saint Peter and Paul, and a picturesque cemetery ground called Slavin where most Czech heroes and heroines in the past two centuries are buried. Lastly, enjoy the beautiful park that surrounds the fortress and the amazing river views from there.
I did walk the distance from IP Pavlova since the hotel I was staying in was there, just one train station away. You'll reach Vyšehrad via Metro C Redline. It looked closer on the map, why not walk it? I did, under a drizzle. It's very doable and the trip is worth it.
I spent the full morning in Vysehrad and even had lunch there. Cross the Vyšehrad Railway Bridge and back. Feel the bridge vibrate when the train passes.
Walk along the Waterfront back to Old Town.
Maisel Synagogue
Visit the Jewish Old Quarters
Visit synagogues, Jewish Museum, and stacked 12 stories underground Old Jewish Cemetery. Get acquainted with Jewish traditions and understand the life they had here. I spent about 2 hours here.
Maisel Synagogue / Pinkas Synagogue / Old Jewish Cemetery / Klausen Synagogue / Ceremonial Hall / Spanish Synagogue / Robert Guttmann Gallery at the quarters and the Old-New Synagogue. Click here for more information on ticket booking and opening hours.
Art Exhibition
At the time of my visit, there was an art exhibition in Pinkas Synagogue of incarcerated Jewish children's drawings from Terezin Ghetto, created between 1942 - 1944 during World War II.
This art class was secretly initiated by artist-teacher, Friedl Dicker Brandeis to help children deal with their grief and depression during the time they were at the ghetto illustrating their daily life there, how they were transported as well as their dreams of a better future returning to their homeland.
It was emotionally powerful and thinking about these again makes me cry. These drawings were all stored in an old suitcase that was found in an attic after the war. Their art lived, sadly the teacher and children were sent to the gas chambers in Auschwitz- Birkenau.
Watch a Classical Concert or Opera in the evening.
Things to Do Prague: Watch Don Giovanni at The Estates Theatre Check out various shows available in different venues throughout the city. The prices are relatively cheaper than their neighboring Schengen countries. Thanks to their love for culture.
Day 4
Visit the Powder Tower
The gothic Powder Tower is the gateway to the medieval royal route and was used as gunpowder storage.
I threw in an image of the Absintherie in case you're interested.
Gastronomic exploits of street carts selling traditional Czech food or indulge in a local restaurant.
Enjoy the street carts.
I did enjoy a few sausages here and there and it's a good way to explore the local food on the cheap.
Old Prague Ham, according to wiki is "a brine-cured and mildly beechwood smoked boneless ham". It is served with boiled potatoes and perfectly enjoyed with Czech Beer.
Beware of the scams at the old square carts though. I encountered one while I was queueing where they were advertising prices for sauerkraut and potatoes with misleading information regarding quantity and price. I also noticed that the hungry tourists who complained were given the fattiest part of the ham. So, I was pleased and happy with my sausage instead.
I also enjoyed a comforting bowl of Czech Goulash (český guláš) right before leaving at the airport.
Have Coffee at the Cubism Cafe.
Check out the Museum of Cubism at the House of Black Madonna. Designed by Czech Cubist Architect, Josef Gočár. I wrote a separate post about it. Here you will enjoy the first Cubist interior and marvel at the cubism-inspired furniture and accessories at the ground floor gallery while you are at it.
Wander the streets and get lost in them.
Shopping
There are lots of souvenir shops around Old Town. I wanted to get some locally made handicrafts from the Czech Republic that can be useful as a gift for the family so I went to Manufaktura which has lots of nice stuff. Prague is a shopping destination. There are lots of international brands along Wenceslas Square and Prague New Town
Other activities in Prague:
Catacombs and Prague Underground Tours
Kutná Hora
Day trips to Kutná Hora, the city of silver. A collection of historical monuments with the Gothic St. Barbara's Church, Italian Court, Czech Silver Museum, and eerie human bone chapel of Sedlec Ossuary. A day trip is usually 6-7 hours.
Terezin
One hour away from Prague which was formerly an 18th Century fortress converted into a garrison and refugee center fleeing the Nazi clutches which was then eventually converted into a concentration camp.
I canceled Kutna Hora and Terezin Tours from my itinerary. After the emotional visit to the Jewish Old Quarters, I wouldn't be able to handle a visit to a concentration camp.
I was already feeling depressed before this trip, so I wanted to focus more on Prague, walking, and feeling better.
Other travel tips:
Avoid taxis whenever you can.
The public transport is very efficient and it's easy to navigate the city.
Be mindful and cautious when exchanging Euros/ Dollars to CZK. At the time of my visit, there were exchange counters that take a commission or hidden charges, who will make you sign a paper. Also, be careful when paying Euros in fast food or restaurants. I came across one fast food with a weird exchange rate that I'm still trying to wrap my head around.
Overall, it's a safe city, so enjoy as much as I loved my stay!
Budget
I spent about 200 Euros for 4 Days -Food, Drinks, Public Transport, Entrance Tickets, Tours, Classical Opera. I mostly walked so I saved on transport. Minus the dent of 52 Euros for the Opera Ticket, I spent about 37 Euros per day. I ate mostly in fast food and street carts. This is a tight budget per day with occasional pints of beer included but there is still room to save and bring this budget down.
Air Fare, Hotel, and Breakfasts are excluded from this budget. I found some good deals online for a budget airline, Volotea and I stayed in Hotel Ibis in IP Pavlova which I booked through booking.com. Then I spent extra 20 Euros shopping for gifts for family.
Prague will always be special to me.
Those 4 days being there on my own was all I needed to overcome the various struggles I faced being nomadic while adjusting to the challenges of motherhood with the uncertainties of our future. If I were to re-live that moment, I would do it all over again.
Is Prague a part of your bucket list of must-see cities?
What was your favorite place in Prague?
Any tips you can share with travelers who want to go there?
Would you ever consider exploring this city on foot?
Which place have you traveled by walking alone?
Thank you for reading! Catch the next part soon about a surprising yet lovely morning walk in Prague.
References:
Inspired by my original post
Prague Travel Guide - Nomadic Matt
"I create spaces that tastefully marry function and aesthetics. I intend to immerse myself in beauty not only by tangible objects but also by the unseen." -
Curiosity and imagination lead to unexpected experiences. Interested in Nature, Places, anything French, International Cuisine, and Architecture + Interior Design. Co-founder of Architecture + Design Community. Feel free to follow her, re-blog, and upvote if you enjoy her content.