那天在逛某個展覽時，時不時聞到淡淡的香味，不像是食物的香味，也不像是女士們的香水味，只是一股似有若無的香氣，待我逛了一圈，逛到幾個設攤奉茶的攤位時，才明瞭那股說不清、道不明的香味，應該是茶香。
雖然很多人都說，現代人都喝咖啡，不喝茶了，不過，據統計，台灣的喝茶人口估計約有1200萬人，有超過一半的人口都有喝茶習慣，涵蓋各年齡層，男女老少都有，但是我認為，該統計資料應該是把年輕人接受度高的手搖飲及瓶裝茶也統計在內，而可以接受傳統泡茶的年輕人，應該沒有想像中多，老人茶為甚麼稱為老人茶，就是泡茶過程需要溫壺、置茶、計時、分茶等繁複步驟，多半是退休或有閒暇的長輩們，才有空細細品茗，因而稱為老人茶，年輕人那來的美國時間，慢慢品味茶呢！
現場的攤位有台灣各地的茶農、茶商，也有販售茶具、茶點與相關商品的攤商，看得我眼花撩亂，有些攤位很大方的提供試喝，只要看到有試飲的攤位，我就忍不住停下腳步，喝上一小杯熱茶，比較一番，當然，我是無法評斷出那種茶比較好喝，因為我就是一個看熱鬧的外行人，但是我蠻喜歡這種熱鬧的氣氛，現場還看到各式各樣的茶壺、茶杯與泡茶器具，有些造型樸素，有些則精緻得像藝術品，俗話說：「工欲善其事，必先利其器」，茶具可能也是很重要的一環，感覺能泡出一壺好茶的人，都很懂得生活。
我觀察到，某些傳統茶商，為了迎合年輕人的喜愛，也再做轉型，他們會說個好故事，採用時尚精緻的包裝，結合異業作大市場等方式，在已經飽和的茶市場，試著殺出一條血路，像是一山一茶這個品牌，推出原葉立體茶包、濾掛茶及設計感茶禮盒，讓傳統品茶更便利，而我在家或出差時，偶爾會用茶包幫自己沖泡一杯熱茶，我有個朋友曾經參加過一場以貓為主題的茶會，一邊喝茶、一邊嚕貓，一邊聽茶師介紹，是個有趣又放鬆的品茗體驗，時代在變，環境也在變，品茶文化或許也會變，不過，茶應該還會在。
One day, while I was walking around an exhibition, I kept catching a faint aroma from time to time. It didn’t smell like food, and it wasn’t the kind of perfume women wear. It was just a subtle, almost unnoticeable scent floating in the air. After walking around for a while, I came across several booths offering tea samples, and that’s when I finally realized what that mysterious aroma was—it must have been the smell of tea.
A lot of people say that these days, everyone drinks coffee and nobody drinks tea anymore. But according to statistics, there are an estimated 12 million tea drinkers in Taiwan, meaning more than half of the population has a habit of drinking tea, and that includes people of all ages, both men and women. Personally, though, I think those statistics probably include popular bubble tea and bottled tea, which are much more acceptable to younger people. The number of young people who actually enjoy traditional tea brewing is probably much smaller than we imagine. There’s a reason traditional tea drinking is sometimes jokingly called “old people’s tea”. Brewing tea the traditional way involves quite a few steps, such as warming the teapot, adding the tea leaves, timing the brewing, and serving the tea. It’s the kind of thing that people with plenty of free time, usually retirees or older folks, can sit down and enjoy slowly. Young people, on the other hand, are way too busy. Who has the time to sit around and slowly savor a cup of tea?
At the exhibition, there were tea farmers and tea vendors from all over Taiwan, as well as booths selling tea sets, tea snacks, and all kinds of tea-related products. There was so much to look at that I didn’t know where to start. Some booths were very generous with their free samples, so whenever I saw one offering tea tasting, I couldn’t resist stopping by for a small cup of hot tea and comparing the different flavors. Of course, I’m really not qualified to say which tea is better, because I’m just a complete outsider who’s there to enjoy the atmosphere and see what’s going on. But I really enjoyed the lively atmosphere. I also saw all kinds of teapots, teacups, and tea-brewing equipment. Some were simple and understated, while others were so beautifully designed that they looked more like works of art. There’s a Chinese saying that goes, “If you want to do a good job, you need the right tools.” I guess tea ware is an important part of the experience too. Somehow, I get the feeling that people who know how to brew a really good pot of tea also know how to enjoy life.
I’ve also noticed that some traditional tea companies are trying to reinvent themselves to appeal to younger consumers. They tell interesting stories, use stylish and attractive packaging, and even team up with businesses from other industries to reach a wider market. In an already saturated tea market, they’re trying to find their own way to stand out. For example, the brand Yishan Yicha has introduced whole-leaf pyramid tea bags, drip-bag tea, and beautifully designed tea gift boxes, making traditional tea much more convenient and accessible. When I’m at home or traveling for work, I occasionally make myself a cup of hot tea using a tea bag. One of my friends once attended a cat-themed tea party, where people could drink tea, pet cats, and listen to a tea master introduce the different teas at the same time. It sounded like a fun and relaxing way to enjoy tea. Times change, and the world changes with them. Tea culture may change too, but I have a feeling that tea itself will always be around.
