Today we drive home from Italy to Germany and this means crossing the alps.
But we decided to do it the fun way and not just by the Gotthard tunnel, no no - we use the pass at 2000 m above sea level.
When you climb up the legendary St. Gotthard Pass like we do today, you’re not just crossing from southern Ticino into northern Uri noooo you’re entering a living museum, perched 2091 meters above sea level.
The drive alone is worth a few oaths and several "whoa!"s, but once you reach the top, the mix of nature, history, and curious oddities grabs you and doesn’t let go.
One of the most striking things I stumbled upon was this rugged eagle-winged memorial, dedicated to Tenente Aviatore Guex, who fell in service of his country on these very peaks. The inscription, in Italian, speaks of sacrifice, pride, and the eternal bond between Ticino and the Swiss Confederation.
Even with the wind tugging at my jacket, I stood still for a long minute. There's something deeply poetic about this place
where the sky swallows the road, and memories are carved into stone.
Just a few steps away from solemn remembrance, I found fluffy chaos: a souvenir stand bursting with stuffed St. Bernards, Swiss cowbells, and postcards that looked like they hadn’t changed since 1984. And honestly? I loved it but didn’t spend my hard earned HBD on it.
The cheerful energy, the dogs with tiny wooden barrels, and the clang of brass bells reminded me: Gotthard is also a playground, not just a pass. I left without such a mini dog or a magnet as I absolutely didn’t need.
Then there was this massive map of the "Vier-Quellen-Weg", or the Four Springs Trail, right on the side of a stone building. I leaned in and traced it with my finger: from the Rhine to the Rhone, the Ticino to the Reuss, four rivers start their journey here, from this very alpine massif.
It’s not just a hike, it’s a hydrological pilgrimage. You’re literally walking across the main watershed of Europe, where streams decide whether to flow toward the North Sea, the Mediterranean, or the Adriatic.
I didn’t have time to hike the whole trail (it’s over 80 km) and I’m far to lazy for such
long walk, but I snapped a picture and made a promise to come back, with better shoes and different spirit to walk this (maybe).
Let me give you a bit background to this historical place. This pass has seen it all—from Roman traders and Napoleonic troops to Tesla drivers just trying to find a parking spot.
First formalized in the 13th century, the Gotthard became the main trade and cultural artery between north and south. When the cobbled Tremola road was added in the 19th century, it became a bucket-list route for every gearhead, cyclist, and history nerd.
And now, here I was somewhere between cloud base and history book, camera in one hand and bratwurst in the other. There are a few shops doing BBQ with wurst or so.
In the early 20th century, Bernard dogs were actually stationed at the Gotthard Hospice, where monks used them to rescue lost travelers in the snow.
So those plush puppies at the souvenir stand? They're more than kitsch,
they’re stuffed tributes to real Alpine heroes.
The Gotthard Pass is more than a scenic drive. It’s a Swiss time machine, a mountaintop museum, and a living postcard.
Whether you're drawn by history, hikes, or honking hairy switchbacks, there’s something unforgettable waiting at the top. We had fun and did a cold windy 25
Minute stop at 2000m - stretching the legs and having a bit gave more power for the upcoming 750 km to my home town.
Next time I’ll bring hiking boots, a journal, and maybe… just maybe… a stuffed dog.
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