For pruning black currant usually begin in the fifth year, when the plant is already beginning to slowly grow over, and its yields decline. Pruning is carried out annually and the complexity is not different. You can trim in both spring and fall and start with the removal of all branches aged 5 years or older, if pruning is started, say, for the sixth year of the life of the bush. These shoots are very prominent - they have very short apical increments. Cut these shoots can be safely, there is no point in feeling sorry for them, because they occupy enough places, often obscuring the center of the bush, and yielding a little.
After that, proceed to remove excess zero branches, starting with the weakest, thin, poorly developed, dry, broken, cutting them to the soil level.
If you notice the signs of the glass beetle (black and rotten core) when cutting, then remove these shoots completely, they will not grow from them, and cut out shoots with very thick kidneys - they have a kidney mite.
When pruning in the spring, pay attention to the tops of the shoots, if they are frozen, then cut them to the healthy part. Twisted shoots, which were exposed to the influence of aphids, can also be cut shorter.
The pruning is almost finished, all that remains is five or six centimeters to shorten the remaining well developed and zero shoots on the plant, as well as shoots of the second order in the event that their length is more than forty centimeters.
And advice, so to speak from experienced ...
Never rejuvenate old shoots with trimming to translate into strong spike-type shoots, this makes no sense because they are much less durable than those that grow from the root (zero), and their yields are much lower.
