The call of Besakih Temple finally echoed in my ears yesterday! After what felt like an eternity (thanks, Covid!), I was desperate to witness firsthand the temple's revamped layout, a topic that's been swirling on social media since last year.
Last year, the Bhatara Turun Kabeh ceremony – a colossal Balinese celebration for the gods held annually on the 10th full moon in the Balinese calendar – slipped through my fingers.
This year, however, anticipation and pure excitement fizzed in my gut. But whispers on social media about overflowing crowds and prayer line marathons fueled my anxieties.
We set out at the crack of dawn (7 am to be exact) bracing ourselves for traffic jams and a battle for parking spots with fellow devotees. After all, it was still the Eid holiday, and Besakih is notorious for getting packed. Surprisingly, the journey unfolded smoothly, taking only an hour and a half from Denpasar to Besakih.
The moment we arrived at the Besakih temple parking lot, my jaw dropped – the multi-level structure, completed just last year, resembled a modern mall parking lot! Despite my worries about snagging a spot, we effortlessly found parking on the first floor.
Reaching the temple itself involved an ascent to the top floor, where a complimentary shuttle awaited senior visitors. Exiting the parking area, the options were enticing: free shuttle for the elderly, ojek (motorbike taxi), or walking.
My wife and I, slightly clueless about the distance, opted for the ojek to expedite our arrival, while my mother, aunt, and nephew enjoyed the comfort of the shuttle.
Stepping into the Besakih temple courtyard, the crowds were manageable. However, navigating towards Batumadeg temple involved some jostling due to a dense line snaking in front of Pasek temple. Thankfully, it remained tolerable.
Our pilgrimage included prayers at Batumadeg temple, Arya Wang Bang Pinatih temple (where we lingered due to the coinciding "Nganyarin" procession), and finally, the grand Penataran Agung Besakih. By 11:30 am, our prayers were complete.
The weather gods seemed to be on our side throughout. The sun peeked shyly through the clouds, sparing us from the scorching Balinese heat during our prayers.
Following our prayers at Penataran Agung, we sought refuge and lunch at the "wantilan," a traditional pavilion. Our lunch spread consisted of the very offerings we presented earlier.
The wantilan buzzed with worshippers seeking post-prayer rest and family meals. As we savored our lunch, a sudden downpour surprised us. Thankfully, the rain subsided just as we finished and readied ourselves to return to the parking lot.
It felt as if the universe conspired to bless our journey yesterday. A smooth commute, manageable crowds during prayers, and even a sprinkle of divine timing with the rain.
All pictures above were taken with Xiaomi Redmi Note 10 Pro