THE WOLFBERG ARCH: the natural phenomenon of the Cederberg mountains

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Whoop whoop! Following on from yesterday’s post - this one covers the trek from the Wolfberg Cracks to the Wolfberg Arch. This iconic rock formation is absolutely worth the climb and heavy backpack.

The Plateau of this Cederberg mountain top is otherworldly. The rock formations guide your path as we make our way from the extreme of the Cracks along this flatter moonlike surface.

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This section of the hike was 5 kilometres long and a relatively consistent gentle scramble towards our goal.

My sister was struggling with the cold due to her MS but we pushed on slowly, making time for her to rest.

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Between the fog and the amount of rocks that we were surrounded by, everything seemed grey. Even the wild flowers and shrubs seem windburnt and grey. I’m sure it would feel quite different on a sunny day.

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At one point the fog lifted just enough for us to see over the edge of the mountain and we were gobsmacked by the incredible view, even if it was only for a few minutes.

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On we walked between absolutely unique rock formations shaped by the elements over thousands of years. And just when we thought the rocks would never end, we saw the wide white sand path leading to the Wolfberg Arch in the distance.

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This direct path sped up our pace dramatically as we had the Arch in sight. But we weren’t there yet. At the end of the sand path we climbed a rocky outcrop to find this work of art that has been added to by every hiker that has climbed the mountain.

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The next flat plain opened up the views of these monstrous outcrops reaching up into the grey sky. The icy wind howled as we walked out of the wind shadows created by these monsters.

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And then just as we turned the last bend around a Boulder, there it was, the Wolfberg Arch in all its glory! We quickly scouted the area for a flat Sandy spot to camp for the night out of the gale force winds and as soon as we dropped our bags, we headed for the looming Arch for some pics before the sunlight disappeared.

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We quickly setup camp for the night and got our dinner going. We needed to get out of the elements as soon as possible as the temperatures were dropping fast and the windchill was real! Luckily our friend Michael had brought a waterproof tarp to cover us for the night because the forecast had predicted rain.

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Just as it was really getting cold our new hiking buddies from the Cracks had finally arrived after a 3 kilometre detour in a big circle. We thought they had gone ahead of us! So we were a bit worried when other hikers said that they hadn’t seen them. We were just glad they were safe as they raced off to find a cave to pit he their tent in for the night.

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Sunset was incredible and eerie under the darkening moody skies. I snapped these quickly after taking a pee next to a bush and a Boulder. (Let’s see who’s really reading the blogs 😂)

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We tucked in early to keep warm.

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After a mostly sleepless and freezing cold night we got up to find frozen ice on our tarp. The tempuras officially below zero. We were all wearing every layer of clothing that we could - two pairs of socks, thermal long johns under track pants, 2 tops, a fleece and 2 jackets, double gloves and beanies. Anything to stay warm. Us South Africans aren’t used to this type of cold.

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We grabbed a hot tea and enjoyed the views for one last time in a wind shadow behind the Arch. The morning sunshine warmed us wonderfully but we still had the task of packing down our tents in the wind.

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All packed, we set off across a wide open plain towards Gabriel’s Kloof. We had decided on an alternative route off the mountain as the cracks would have been too dangerous in the wet conditions.

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The first 2 kilometres were fast and flat and the Maps.me app was very accurate. None of us had ever done any of these routes so we had to rely on the offline GPS map system to get us off the mountain safely.

Our only other sign that we were heading along the correct path were the rock piles once again leading the way.

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The next kilometre took us down a steep, rough and stoney path towards the intersection where we would turn left onto Gabriel’s Kloof path. Follow that path up the hill to the saddle and then over to the big 650 meter descent of the day.

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We took this section slow so that my sister wasn’t left too far behind. The wind had thankfully slowed but every gust was a reminder of how cold the morning had been.

Gabriel’s Kloof path met with a jeep track contour where we turned left and then soon right again down an overgrown single track. This new terrain was a surprise. I can’t call it a rock garden because it was more of a rock FOREST!

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This undulating rocky path continued for about 2 kilometres over 2 ridges until eventually we reached an open hillside and finally were surrounded by Spring flowers and more greenery than we had seen in a couple days.

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Purple and white Stock Sun Spurge
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Sceptres
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*Everlastings

It was still another 3 kilometres to Driehoek Farm where we were praying we could hitch a ride back to our car at Sanddrif Camp site.

As we walked I prayed for favour and a rescuer to drive us back because the 12 kilometres walk was not an option with Jade’s MS really slowing her down now.

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Soon we spotted the clump of pine trees that surrounded Driehoek and new that we were almost done.

As we walked through a back gate we spotted a family in a nearby hut who thankfully agreed to give us a ride back. It turns out that our rescuer was an accomplished trail runner and mountaineer spending the weekend with his family, but he was only too happy to drop everything to help us.

On the drive back he told us about his adventures on the mountains and the various routes that we had yet to explore.

Finally back in civilisation, we bid him farewell as we loaded our backpacks into my little car. The other hikers had just made it down the cracks and told us it had been snowing!!! And then as we’re standing there down walked a tall older man in a weather jacket and a green kilt! The end of the hike couldn’t have been stranger. Who climbs mountains in a kilt? Well I guess, being a Donald, I should know - the Scots of course!

This is a hike that I’d like to do again, on a warmer weekend with better weather. I would do this route exactly the same. It was technical and tough at times but gave relief on the flat open plains and then surprised us with its rock formations and weathered, rugged beauty.

Right now I’m reflecting on a great weekend and looking ahead to another epic hike this weekend.

Hood you enjoyed the ride! I certainly did - although I’m very happy to at home in my warm bed with my chihuahuas.

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