My aunt and I often hike together and I asked her if she was keen to try a hike we hadn’t done before? She was a little hesitant but agreed. I messaged a friend that has done this specific hike loads of times and he sent a map of the path with some directions.
After a slightly anxious nights sleep Aunty Debbie and I headed to the start in Hout Bay on a road called Chapmans Peak Drive. It’s one of the most scenic cliff side drives in the whole of South Africa and used in many movies. But today we were going to take on the contour path along the lower edge of the peaks.
This particular area is usually very busy with hikers, trail runners; and down below the road is usually teaming with runners, cyclists and folk exercising with their dogs. Who can blame them when the views of the mountains and then Hout Bay with its long beach are just so incredible. You can see why it’s such a tourist destination.
We started our hike just as the sky was getting light and the path was easily visible. The starting point was at the East Fort - an old crumbling stone building that used to be a lookout post for incoming ships. This section of the walk is relatively easy and gradual but with a lot of loose stone so you need to watch your footing. We stopped after the first big zigzag to admire the view.
The sun had just begun creeping over and falling on the opposite mountain across the bay with the Sentinal peak on the far left, jutting into the sea.
On we go towards Blackburn Rivine, the first of a number of rivines that we crossed. But this one is the biggest and still had a river running down it from the rains a couple days before, while the others were dry.
Once we got to the rivine directions got a little tricky with the growth of the surrounding trees but some clever soul put small red ribbons an a few strategic branches to guide the way. We would never have found it if it weren’t for those ribbons!
The path narrowed and the slopes got steeper as we ascended toward the lower rim of the cliffs. At one point Debbie was walking slowly behind me holding onto my hand to keep steady and trying not to look down. If you get vertigo then this will not be for you unfortunately. I loved it, but kept a slower pace for this section.
At one point we started to get a little worried as we hadn’t seen another soul for an hour and half. We could see the toll both on the road below and thought that’s where we were supposed to go down, but couldn’t find any path to our right that went downhill. A little prayer as we approached a big over hanging cliff face and 2 trail runners came running directly towards us!
Hallelujah!!! They said we were on the right path and to just keep going until we saw the fork that would take us back down to the road below. Ok this was much further than I had anticipated but we were too far to turn back and soldiered on. Not too far ahead the terrain changed and the slope got more gentle. The shrubbery changed too as we started to see the fynbos flowering all around us. ( Fynbos means fine bush and is indigenous to the Western Cape. It has tiny fine leaves and flowers and is extremely water wise.)
This was also the first time that we got to walk in the sunshine as we had spent almost 2 hours in the cool of shaded mountainside.
We finally saw more hikers and found our path down towards the road. By now this section of the path was busy because it is a short route directly to Chapmans Peak and Noordhoek Peak. Today we had had enough of an adventure and were ready to get down the mountain and get a coffee.
Finally down we celebrated and began the 3km walk back along the road to our cars at East Fort. During lockdown I walked this road often. We weren’t allowed on the mountain or beaches which meant that everyone got cramped onto the streets and pavements during short exercise windows (seemed counter intuitive) so walking in the same old gutter has become a norm for us.
I just managed to catch a peloton of cyclists shoot by as we walked and ate jelly bears.
The views from the roadside are just as spectacular as from the mountain. I guess they all have their charm. There is only 1 hotel on this stretch of wildlife reserve and that’s the Tintswalo Hotel. You can’t beat the position with a long driveway that snakes down the mountainside towards the rocky shore below. Views of the quaint harbour and Hout Bay beach and the sound of waves crashing.
Back at our cars we breathed a sigh of relief. Our adventure was spectacular, a little nerve wracking, longer than anticipated but so so keen to do it again!!!
Here’s our final map:
We completed almost 13kms in 2 ½ hours.
Here are a few more photos from Chapmans peak of the Sentinal Peak at sunset.
And a final shot of the Chappies cliffs - graveyard to more than 1 car.
If your ever in the Cape then this should be on your list of things to see and do. The commercial stuffs alright, but nature is what Cape Town is all about. Nowhere else you’ll find a Capetonian on a Sunday morning.
All photos my own
