Cambodia - Banteay Srei, the Citadel of Women

Banteay Srei is the first temple we visited when we arrived in Cambodia. My wife insisted it was the most beautiful, because "women", obviously. It is located in Angkor area, not very far away the main sites.

The temple was built in the 10th century and is dedicated to the god Shiva. It is structured with three concentric enclosures leading to the central sanctuary. It is built out of red sandstone which, well you will see, allows the finest carving.

First enclosure

The first enclosure is mainly in ruin, but the door remains, and what door! Its pediment announces what lies inside: the finest intricate designs of carvings!

Please allow yourselves to zoom in a bit. It represents the god Indra on a three-headed elephant, above what seems to be a Garuda guardian (we will see again in the sanctuary), surrounded by a snake with one head on each side, swallowing a three-headed Naga. Yeah, that's a lot of heads!

Most of the first enclosure is then occupied by a moat, from which we can see the second enclosure, and the sanctuary behind.

Second enclosure

From the moat we could see already the wall of the enclosure, one entrance and its pediment (which from afar should be spectacular) and the profile of the three towers.

And with people for the scale. It's actually quite a small temple, a tiny one even when compared with the other temples of Angkor, but it's surely not the last for its beauty. Yes, be patient, we are getting to it.

The entrance has a massive pediment indeed, but what really impress is the delicacy of the cravings. Have a look at the central leaves. Find the three figures on the top of the pediment. A good part of it is actually missing, but what remains is already so grandiose, imagine it in its days!

Inner enclosure

The inner enclosure is actually barely noticeable, it is mostly in ruin and it seems that the second enclosure is actually the central one. But there was another one. You can see here below the two: the second enclosure with it big blocks of laterite, and what remains of the inner enclosure made of bricks.

But if we allow ourselves to be approximate, it doesn't make a big difference between the two enclosures, which means that effectively, we are at the sanctuary, one of the finest jewel of Khmer art.

On the first plan the two so-called "libraries" and on the back the platform holding the three towers.

From the side, the rear of a library and the three towers aligned.

The platform is guarded by four kneeling Garuda guardians. You can also see with exuberance are decorated the towers, as all the sanctuary actually.

The towers cannot be entered, but why would you anyway, when their exterior is already so richly decorated?

Here an example of the fineness of the details in the decoration. You can also appreciate the restoration works made on the left. Remember it was built in the 10th century, and Khmers already had the talent, resources and aesthetics to build such beauty!

A pediment on one of the library. Shiva is on top, men are below, followed by Garuda guardians and then animals. In the middle is the Demon-King Ravana with his ten heads. Yeah, really a lot of heads!
You can also spot Nagas and Garudas at each corners!

I don't really know what is represented below, but again, the fineness of the works, the intricate details, the perfection of the proportions and symmetry, it just blew my mind. 10th century!

All in one, Banteay Srei is really a unique site to visit. Firstly, because it is dedicated to Hinduism, which is not really common in South East Asia where Buddhism dominate. As such the specific decorations and mythology presented can't really be seen in the countries around. Or not at my knowledge.
Secondly, because the limited size of the temple, compared to the massive complex of Angkor, makes it a concentrate of Khmer art, indeed a little jewel with high importance.
If you have the opportunity, do not hesitate to visit Cambodia. We found there a really welcoming country with lovely people. Despite the suffering still somehow in the air. Maybe the best support is just to go visit them.

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