This post is a continuation of my previous post on the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. This trip happened after over a year after the long lockdown so I gave myself more time to observe all the details which I never had the time to notice before. Though it was a very hot and bright day, at atmosphere was quite exhilarating and energetic. So, everything seemed more beautiful and brighter to my eyes. I took more photos than usual so I could remind myself of all the new details I had noted.
After spending about half an hour in the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, here is that old post, I went for a walk around the area before walking towards the Grand Palace. I have noticed old hand painted enamel work on some old structure. Luckily, people had not renovated them by putting new modern paint on the old fading colours.
Some of these structures were covered with pieces of enamel potteries and seashells. These were artistic work completely made with dedication and love. I couldn’t believe myself for not seeing all these beautiful details before. I took all these for granted as my uncle used to take me to this temple every Sunday when I was a kid. So, I had walked and run around the temple many times. I wished I could take my uncle for a tour of the temple and tell him about past stories. But he wouldn’t be interested any way, he’s more into superstitious approach to sacred statues and supernatural abilities of religious people.
Walking around the old ground, I reminisced about my childhood time at the temple and how I must have been influenced by the atmosphere or vibes of this temple. My uncle passed away several years ago, his family didn’t inform me that he had been in hospital for quite a while. I didn’t have the chance to look after him or say goodbye to him. I lost touch with his family years ago when the whole family moved outside Bangkok. Another uncle managed to find my number and told me to go to the funeral. I was very sad but his kindness would stay with me forever. He was an important of my childhood education on Buddhism and the sacredness of old temples including the experience of visiting shamans with him.
My uncle and caretaker of the temple were on very good terms; they would have Chinese tea and chatted for almost an hour in the temple. The old caretaker often told me ghost stories about this temple. He told me that the two giants by the gate would become alive at nigh and walk around the temple. Their feet often cracked holes around the yard. I was so glad I had the privilege of drinking Chinese tea inside the old temple. My uncle would take me to pay respect to all the important shrines inside the temple ground before he returned home together. So, I always gent like visiting an old relative’s home whenever I entered this old temple.
This was the first time I noticed old bonsai trees in antique potteries (probably orders from China almost two hundred years ago). In the old days, specially design sets of potteries, plates and bowls for Royal household’s use would be made to order by two famous potteries in China. We used to have very famous celadon kilns but fine white clay was very hard to find in Siam.
The tradition of having bonsai trees was also influenced by Chinese merchants and diplomats who popularise this fashion among the privileged classes of Siamese. The Western influence could be seen in many marble statues decorating around the temple yard. These two hundred years’ old marble and stone statues were discovered last year during the construction of the tunnel in front of the Grand Palace. No one knew why almost 300 old western looking statues were buried around the Palace. These could be spotted in the yard and became tourist attractions for Thai visitors.
I was quite surprised that I hadn’t noticed all the collections of bonsai trees tugged away by the walls in the past. I was more interested in the old fine porcelain plant pots. These would fetch a lot of money in the black market. Several years ago, I found out that all old plant pots in a small place outside Bangkok were replaced with ordinary plant pots. It must have been an inside job which was incredibly daring. I always spotted all the nice antiques in temples and old palaces. Most Thai people didn’t have the knowledge about valuable antiques. Most antiques would be stolen by orders from clients in the black market.
The Grand Palace has high level of security and many guards whereas in old palaces far away would often be neglected and lack the security budget. An old wooden palace, ten minutes drive from the Grand Palace, had hundreds of old Faberge eggs stolen while the palace was closed since the death of King Rama V. Nowadays, we aren’t allowed to see or get closed to old collections of weapons and antiques which I could remember glancing on them as a youngster. I did try to search for those hidden rooms with dark cabinets and dusts, but those old stuff had been removed and stored somewhere else. There were big heavy stone items which were rescued from the Burmese invasion of Ayuttaya; those belonged in the throne halls of the royal palace. They did strike me with very powerful vibes.
I would love to touch the porcelain pot plants but I was afraid some guards would think I wanted to steal the bonsai! The texture and design on some of the plant pots were very attractive and inviting. But they probably wouldn’t carry so much vibes as they were left on their own with the natural elements for ages. Some big bonsai trees would probably have more stories to tell as they could eavesdrop on people’s conversations during some ceremonies. But they probably didn’t like to gossip about people’ secrets, they seemed aloof from mundane matters.
This part of the temple which connects to the Grand Palace is still actively used by the Royal families as they would perform traditional religious ceremonies and in the temple hall while other smaller halls would house some old relics of their ancestors. Some old buildings are like personal museums where ancestral antiques are kept as historical records. These storage rooms used to be opened to the public several years ago. I just loved these dusty old shelves full of undisturbed pieces of history. Meanwhile I just had to be content with old bonsai trees and warm sunshine while trying to listen to any story whispered in the wind.
Wishing you peace, good health and prosperity.
Stay strong and cheerful.
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