Paul walker ever said:
Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave."
We’re only on this planet for a short amount of time..let’s be honest.
What is a 80+ years.
We might just enjoy every bit of it.
Paddle out in to the upcoming waves, try to break true is amazing. That one moment you’ve got that feeling your on the right spot and to give it a go!! Woow, so much adrenaline speeding true your body! Push, stand up and ride that waves like never before...Kelly Slater would say...it’s like the mavia, once your in there is no way out!
God bless you and live day by day people!